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THE FABRIC: ESSENTIAL QUALITY INDICATOR lot added, "twisted legs" can result. Similarly, 5-: compensate for the natural torque of some Biting from the circular knitting process to Ft in the finished garment (see Figure 7-5). shrinkage, both torque and skewness fdo not become apparent until the garment ed. For this reason, it is especially impor-I apparel manufacturers routinely monitor al properties of cloth before cutting. Appearance Retention. Fabric must maintain its appearance for the garment to remain the ability of a fabric to stay the same color; retain creases; resist wrinkling, snagging, and pilunthstand the1 heat of care processes deterte:her the garment maintains its original ss. Colorfastness is the ability of the :;:n its color (Figure 7-11). Colorfastness olor retention in reaction to laundering uer. detergent, heat), light, dry-cleaning a and pool water, perspiration, and other Colorfastness is a relative term; no garmpletely colorfast. Expect some loss of .use of the limitations of technology, rme fabrics are much more colorfast than s is of particular concern when contrast ised on the same garment. Red fabric trim \\indbreaker can bleed during washing if red dyestuff is not used. change in the garment's original color is a bee of consumer dissatisfaction. Consumers d jeans, but most other items with colors :or fade are discarded as unwearable, even illy sound. More often color loss or change . that the consumer does not notice unless pared back to the original color. For exnetimes one part of a coordinated outfit is I laundered more than the other, causing it hen the consumer wants to wear the pieces gun, they no longer match in color. Wise wash both pieces together every time Lack of colorfastness may be expressed in a variety ways 1. Fading refers to the lightening of a color because of or breakdown of the dye. Clothes someide in the retail store under the bright lights Umg floor or in display windows exposed lost fading at the consumer level is ?peated laundering, to sunlight exposure ments worn outdoors, or to long-term !m closets with windows. 2. Frosting occurs when color leaves the surface of due to abrasion. Notice it on the hems What are the ways you can express the lack of colorfastness? 197 and pocket edges of denim jeans, especially those that have been stonewashed. In this particular example, the frosting is a desirable characteristic. At other times, it is not desirable. Crocking 3. is the transfer of a fabrics color to another surface through rubbing; it occurs under dry or wet (moist) conditions. For example, the dye from a pair of unwashed blue jeans might crock onto a person's undergarments or skin. 4. Bleeding or staining is the migration of color from a wet fabric into water and sometimes from there onto another fabric. This can happen on the same garment or from one garment to another. It usually happens when the garments are left sitting in the wet condition for longer than an hour, such as when a load of clothes is left sitting in the washer for several hours before being dried. 5. Yellowing is the change of a base color to a very yel lowed version of a color. It can occur in two ways. One is the incomplete rinsing of a garment after wet processing or home laundering. In this case, chemical or detergent residue accidentally left in the cloth causes the change in color as it reacts to heat and time. The other situation also involves chemicals left in the cloth, in this case, those in troduced in the form of fabric softeners. When ex posed to heat and time, some softener chemicals turn yellow. In both cases, thorough laundering of the garments removes most of the yellowed appearance. As in dimensional stability, there are no regulations requiring the labeling of Colorfastness of garments. Some garment labels include the word colorfast, but this has no objective definition and is a marketing tool used to appeal to consumers' desire for colorfast garments. Wrinkle Resistance. Creases appear in most fabrics when pressure, heat, and/or moisture are applied to the folded or compressed fabric. Wrinkle resistance, the ability of a fabric to avoid undesirable creases, is generally a desirable feature (except when a wrinkled look is fashionable). The fabric's resilience determines whether or not a garment that becomes wrinkled will remain wrinkled, affecting both appearance and ease of care. In other cases, crease retention, the ability of a fabric to retain creases, is desirable. Crease retention keeps the style crease on pant legs and the creases of pressed pleats sharp. Synthetic fibers have a natural tendency for wrinkle resistance that natural fibers do not have. Often chemical treatments are applied to 100% cotton fabrics to make them more wrinkle resistant. This is effective if the process is carried out correctly. However, the chemicals used may cause the cotton

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