Complete List of Terms and Definitions for Test 168
| Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
| chanson | ... |
| doloroso | sadly, sorrowfully |
| Debussy | Impressionism/20th Century |
| Aulos with God | Dionysus |
| Canso | A love song |
| Full Anthem | unaccompanied and contrapuntal |
| modernism | movement of radical experimentation |
| Suspicious Minds | Elvis (60's RCA) |
| Spondee | #5 two dotted quarter notes |
| VIELLE | Medieval bowed sting instrument, predecessor of the violin and the viol |
| "drop" mix | short overlap between songs |
| aria | song- florid, expansive, melodious- rapid fire delivery with melismas |
| Harmony | the elemental category describing vertical combinations of pitches |
| Schola cantorum | Singing school for the priesthood |
| sharp | raises a note 1/2 a step |
| Poem Electronique |
Varese, Combined electronic sounds with recorded ones, from noises to a singer, and represented a pinnacle of his concept of spatial music |
| Hook | brief catchy phrase in a song |
| German Opera | Weber founded. Bel Canto (voice) |
| Who was the mixed Italian composer? | Monteverdi |
| Country's first multi-million seller, The Prisoner's Song, was recorded on record labels by the same artist. What was his name used on his first recording with Victor? | Vernon Dalhart |
| Les Huguenots | Meyerbeer 1791-1864typical Grand Opera with:-large cast-dramatic effects-tragic story (16th century France)\"people have power\" |
| Corruption in papacy |
-8 crusades -Avignon papacy -Pope Leo X selling indulgences |
| Triad | A chord which contains three different notes, with qualities of Major, minor, Augmented, or diminished |
| Igor Stravinsky Compositions |
1. Pulcinella 2. Firebird 3. Petrushka 4. Rite of Spring 5. Cancticum Sacrum 6. Threni 7. L'histoire du Soldat 8. The Rakes Progress 9. Symphony of Psalms |
| Blind Italian composer whose extant music is all secular. he uses musical rhyme, a sense of mode, syncopation, and a unique cadence | Francesco Landini |
| William Byrd | 1540-1623 "Sing joyfully unto god" leading coposer of late 16th early 17th century, student of Thomas Talis, "Gradualia" contain complete pilyphonic mass propers for the major days of the church year |
| lieder | German texted solo vocal song with piano accompaniment. |
| Chess Records | Chicago (1950): Founded by Chess brothers. Dixon writer/producer. Muddy Waters, Bo Didley, Etta James, Chuck Berry, The Moonglows, Howlin Wolf. |
| choral prelude | ornamental setting of a pre-existing chorale tune intended to be played on the organ before the singing of the choral by the full congregation |
| Year in which Beethoven returned to Vienna to live there permanently | 1792 |
| The Velvet Underground's Debut album was produced by what influential contemporary artist? | Andy Worhol |
| For what play did Beethoven write incidental music of special significance? | Leonore |
| English reformation |
Act of Supremacy (1534)- head of Anglican church Act of Uniformity (1549)- everyone under his rule -had a vernacular liturgy in form of an anthem |
| gigue, giga, jig | Irish origin, compound duple meter, usually quick |
| According to Boethius, the music of the universe is: | musica mundana |
| What are the characteristics of the expressionist movement | atonal music |
| C.P.E. Bach | "Versuch über die wahre Art das Klavier zu Spielen" |
| Psalms |
Poems of praise from the Hebrew Book of Psalms. Singing and chanting of _______ in Christian traditions. Singing of _____ take root in cantillation. |
| non-market economics | the study of the production, trade, and distribution of goods and services via mechanisms other than the market, in other words using systems other than the Price system. Non-market economies do not operate through the exchange of money. |
| libretto | text of an opera; Italian for "little book"a play usually in rhymed or unrhymed verse |
| Post-Josquin generation | 5-6 voices were used more commmonly, chant melodies were treated more freely, and text was treated carefully |
| Jean Calvin | follower of luther in Germany and Scandinavia. Reformer. |
| Swing Time | Famous Ginger Rogers and Fred dance. Flirtation through fights |
| Social position of composers | Unlike the Classical period, composers found it necessary to obtain income from another source. Frequently, they were players, conductors, or teachers. They weren't regarded as servants anymore like earlier centuries. |
| What kind of quality was the Motet in? | low quality |
| Count Giovanni Bardi | The florentine Camerata met at his house |
| patter song | a fast paced song with a narrow melodic range delivered in a sing/song manner |
| dance suite | collection of dances all in a single key for one instrument or another-typically binary AB form |
| What was the most popular black group in America from 1957 through 1961, produced by Leiber and Stoller? | The Coasters |
| Which production team popularized Bubble Gum? | Jerry Kasanetz, and Jeff Katz |
| What is an antiphone? | (1) A LITURGICAL CHANT that precedes and follows a PSALM or CANTICLE in the OFFICE. (2) In the MASS, a chant originally associated with ANTIPHONAL PSALMODY; specifically, the COMMUNION and the first and final portion of the INTROIT. |
| Society for Private Musical Performance | Organizing created by the second Viennese school (Berg, Webern, Schoenberg) |
| Ritornello form | in 16th and 17th C. vocal music this was an instrumental interlude between sung stanzas; in an aria this is a similar passage that recurs several times, like a refrain; typically played at the beginning, between stanzas, and at the end; states the main theme. |
| Which schools and composers influenced Mozart's symphonic style? | Sammartini, Mannheim, J.C. Bach, Haydn |
| Tenor Mass/Cantus Firmus mass | polyphonic mass in which the same C.F. is used in each movement, normally in tenor |
| What instruments are called in Schubert's "Trout" quintet. What did the fourth movement based on? | piano violin, viola, cello, bass. based on his lied "Die Forelle." |
| Opera/Vocal Music in Early Classical Period **Catalyst for stylistic/social change** |
*new traits begin in Italian opera (1720s/30s) *serious/comic diverge (Aristotle) *both types value melody and the ability to portray complex characters and rapidly changing emotions *comic opera less bound by convention=more exploration *COMIC OPERA IN VERNACULAR!!!!! ** *2 types: Opera Buffa, intermezzo |
| Mozart Piano Sonata in F Major | 3/4 Major, Piano, alberti bass in left, painfully Mozart. |
| head (part of jazz form) | the lead melody which is played at the start and end of the song |
| Dance music in the middle ages | About 50 notated dance form the 13th & 14th centuries survive. The most popular genres were the carole and the estampie (both were texted). |
| Crinoline | Starched |
| camelids | south america |
| Madras | Yarn Dyed |
| cutting for approval | CFA |
| flax | ireland and beligum |
| woolen yarns | bulkier, softer, warmer |
| ATMI | American Textiles Manufacturers Institute |
| MultiFiber Arrangement (MFA) 1974-1991 | null |
| NODES | Irregular crosswise joint like markings present in many bast fibers. |
| Antistatic compounds increase the electrical conductivity of fibers. | |
| Generic names differentiate among manufactured and synthetic fibers based on chemical composition. | |
| • Fabric construction incorporates looped yarns on surface of fabric• so densely packed it becomes a raised surface• Cut: loops are cut• Uncut: loops are not cut• examples: velvet, velveteen, mohair, corduroy, and terryc | Pile Weave |
| filling(weft) | woven fabrics- the widthwise (horizontal) yarns carried over and under the warp |
| Lyocell | composed of solvent-spun cellulose. self-contained solvent-spun process used to produce this fiber creates less water and air pollution. Stronger, does not shrink as much, luster, soft hand, good drape. |
| bilateral agreements | agreements between two countries |
| Retail | link between manufacturer and consumer |
| how is PTFE created? | "emulsion spun" |
| cross dye |
50% cotton 50% polyester Heather patern mixture of different fabrics and then dye and it gives variation of colors |
| COLORFASTNESS | General term denoting the relative durability of dye or pigment coloration to exposure to light, pollutants, or crocking and to laundering and cleaning. |
| olefin | lightest fiber, zero moisture regain, melt spun, high tenacity, high abrasion, reistance, high elastic recovery, lower resilience than nylon and polyester, extremely difficult to dye, heat shrinkage |
| oriented | polymer chains arranged in more ordered way, somewhat aligned with each other |
| Manufactured and synthetic fibers are extruded through the spinneret, produced in filament form, and solidified by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling. | |
| When compared to regular filament yarns, BCF yarns are more comfortable next to the skin. | |
| Manufactured and synthetic fibers make possible many aspects of contemporary life. | |
| • Color applied to specific areas of fabric to create patterns and motifs• Textile Printingo Application of dyes/pigments to produce fabric designs on fabrico Printing allows color to be applied to specific areas of the fabric | Printing |
| •One of the world’s oldest textile fibers. Obtained from stem of flax plant. Relatively expensive. Is strong, abrasion resistant, light resistant, has a nice luster, stiff and does not drape well, wrinkles easily, has poor resiliency, expands, and co | Linen |
| Hard-twist yarn | Smoother, firmer, kinkier, and stronger. |
| Spinnerette | device used to form the filaments. |
| Consumption | apparel: 35%; home furnishings: 40%; industrial: 25% |
| Hygroscopic | Wool is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and still a very good fiber (to wear in places with a cold, damp climate) because it has a hollow inside to hold in the warm air |
| what is one problem with acrylic? | pilling |
| mix= | different yarns and same fabrics, Already have finished yarns and put them in the same cloth |
| insecticide | Insect resistant- chemicals that taste horrible to insects. Not permant finsih but lasts a long time. |
| COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT (CODE)CLASS 5 = NO FADINGCLASS 1 = HIGH DEGREE OF FADING | |
| GABARDINE | Tightly woven, medium to heavy weight, steep to regular angle twill weave fabric with a pronounced wale, typically wool, wool blend, or synthetic to resemble wool. |
| MEDULA | An airy honeycombed core present in some wool fibers |
| STAPLE FIBER | Any natural or manufactured fiber produced in or cut to a short length measured in inches or centimeters. (ex. cotton fibers) |
| COIR | Fiber obtained from the fibrous mass between the outer shell and the husk of the coconut |
| 40/20 | 40 = denier, 20= # of filaments |
| acrylic uses | primarily used in staple form, sweaters, mittens, fake furs, resemble wool, socks, sunlight resistant- drapery, outdoor furniture |
| polyester | 2nd most used and produced (following cotton), melt-spinning, similar modulus to cotton (good to blend with), high modulus, high elastic recovery and resilience, superior wrinkle resistance and shrinkage, low moisture regain, wicking ability by hard to dye, withstands UV and weathering |
| acetate and triacetate | modified cellulosic fibers, low tenacity, very weak-high amorphous, loses 50% of strength when wet, poor elastic recovery, good resilience, heat-set,thermoplastic, sunlight degrades |
| Courses are the horizontal rows of stitches visable on the back of knit fabrics. | |
| Knitting is a fabrication mehos made from a series of interlocking loops. | |
| Laminated is not a nonwoven fiberweb structure. | |
| A term used for polyester is PET. | |
| Olefin is almost always colored by mass pigmentation because of its low absorbancy. | |
| • Uses prepared screens to apply color to specific areas• Dye is pressed through a fine screen to apply design• Each color in design requires a separate screen• Traditional screen printing done by hand• Very labor intens | Screen Printing |
| Basket Weave | Checkered pattern that resembles the side of a basketcreated by using 2 or more warp/weft yarns traveling together |
| Open-end spinning | A method of producting spun arns. |
| unilateral agreements | agreement that benefits only one side |
| serviceability concepts | cost; care; durability; comfort and safety-interaction b/t textile, body, environment; appearance retention; environmental impact |
| Node | Weak spots in bast fibers.. places where linen tends to break if repeatedly folded in the same place |
| what type of resiliency does rayon have? | moderate |
| washable wool |
Apply thin plastic substance called resin. It goes on scales so they can’t felt. If you have a blend this is good because it makes it easyier to wash. Plastic coating wears away over time. |
| screen printing |
Common for quilting Screen printing most common technique Have as many colors as you want Ink that they use for screen printing is very light weight Very detailed colorful images fast |
| PROPERTIES OF PROTEIN FIBERS | Resiliency - resists wrinkles, maintain shapeHygroscopic - comfortable in cool damp climateWeaker when wet - loose strength when wetLighter weight by volume than other fibersHarmed by bleach Yellows in sunlightDry heat causes fibers to be brittle and harshFlame resistant |
| silk properties | stronger than wool but has less elastic recovery and resilience, weak when wet, good absorbancy |
| mercerized cotton | fabrics or yarns treated with strong sodium hydroxide solutions, usually under tension. increased tenacity, regain, dyeability, and luster |
| Mercerization is a finish used to modify the performance of: coir flax cotton ramie | c) cotton |
| macrostructure | things you can see by eye; length, shape and contour, and crimp |
| The word "viscous" has to do with which of the properties of polymers? How they melt How they stick How they flow How strong they are | c |
| tenacity | a measure of the tensile strength of the fiber, expressed as grams of force needed to rupture the fiber, divided by the denier. held along length and pulled apart |
| Quality in knit fabrics is assessed in much the same manner as for woven fabrics. | |
| Micro fibers are fibers less than 1.0 denier per filament | |
| •One of the most widely used fibers for home furnishings. Characteristics vary based on variety, growing conditions, and processing. Is versatile, abrasion resistant, light resistant, cleans easily, wrinkles easily (blending with polyester helps), can | Cotton |
| Large Diameter | Bulkier fabrics because they do not pack as well as thin fibers. |
| Remnants | 1-10 yds pieces of cloth, very short. They are sold by pounds. |
| market-directed systems | consumers have the opportunity to make choices that they wish from an assortment of goods at any given time; rewards companies that respond best to consumers desires; perfect ones dont exist bc of politics; price becomes regulator of supply & demand; firms have freedom to |
| Naturally-colored cotton | Comes from ancient types of cotton that grow in different colors such as yellow, tan, rust, etc. instead of white. Compared to more common white cotton, naturally colored cotton has lower yields and the fibers are shorter and weaker. Naturally-colored cotton is not processed with chemicals or dyes and tends to be more expensive to harvest. Unlike dyed cotton, the colors grow darker with age |
| neps | thick spots in the yarn caused by tangled fibers |
| what is usually done to spandex when it appears in a product? | delustered |
| napping |
Example flannel. You can do both sides. Done by running fabric that has tiny little metal teeth Fabric can start to form pills It will never go back to how it looked before Benefit- soft, increases insulating factor |
| progressive shrinkage | continues to shrink every time you wash it |
| WOOL | Fibers that grow on the sheep fleece. Varieties include: Alpaca, Angora, Botany, Cashmer, Merino & Shetland |
| MARTINDALE TEST | An English test used by the Wool Bureau for testing abrasion resistance. |
| which of the following is the natural fiber with the highest moisture absorbance? rayon cotton silk wool | d) wool |
| Which fiber is the best choice for indoor – outdoor carpeting? wool nylon cotton olefin jute | d) olefin |
| If a fiber has a very high modulus, the arrangement of polymer molecules in that fiber is probably A) Nonoriented crystalline B) Oriented crystalline C) Nonoriented amorphous D) Oriented amorphous | b |
| Slippage of yarns in a fabris is more of a problem with regular filament yarns in a satin weave. | |
| • One of the 3 basic weaves, which produces a smooth surface by floating warp yarns over multiple picks (warped-face), or floating filling yarns over multiple ends (filling-faced sateen). The points of intersection of warp and filling are as widely spa | Satin Weave |
| Core-spun yarns | they have a central filament core of spandex with staple fiber that has been spun around the core. Appears to be a spun yarn without the core center. |
| Samual Slater | In 1789, he brought plans for the cotton mill to America, it opened in Rhode Island in 1791 (textile mill) |
| what happens if the fabric has flaws? | it get rejected |
| which fiber can be used as a barrier for medical purposes? | olefin |
| flocking |
Put dots of glue on fabric and then ran it through a machine Doesn’t have to be dots Can make any kind of pattern you want There is a way to do it that involves weaving When you make large section can kinda feel like velvet Cheap way As you wash it glue starts to deteriorate |
| DOTTED SWISS | A sheer cloth with a spaced pattern. Produced by a dense area of supplementary weft in a swivel weave which creates raised dots. |
| What is the name for the fiber obtained from the first shearing of the sheep? merino wool virgin wool lamb's wool first wool | c) lamb's wool |
| Leaders in major trading countries initiated 2 efforts after ww2 | establishment of the international monetary fund (IMF) & establishment of general agreement on tariffs and trade (GAAT) |
| what does latex come from? | from sap before made into rubber |
| what happens if you put acetate in the dryer? | it melts |
| what is a strike off? |
sample. difficult to make just a sample, very expensive. Chanel uses strike offs. usually have manufacturing mins that are very large like 2000 yds |
| what are the steps of wet spinning? | cellulose, dope, filter, spinneret, acid bath |
| BURN TEST FINDINGS OF PROTEIN FIBERS | When approaching the flame they curl away When in the flame they burn slowlyAfter removed they may self extinguishThe ash is a crushable black ashThe odor produced is that of burning hair |
| which way is warp on the loom | length wise, go through the loom |
| what is spiral yarn? |
Composite yarn Take 1 yarn and wrap a 2nd yarn around it |
| BURN TEST FINDINGS OF CELLULOSIC FIBERS | When approaching the flame they do not shrink or fuse.When in the flame they burn and produce a light gray smokeAfter removed they continue to burn and an orange afterglow is visibleThe ash is gray and feathery with a smooth edge.The odor produced is that of burning leaves or paper. |
| what does it mean when there is a fuzzy edge on fabric? | they used air/ water jets |
| why is wet spinning not environmentally friendly? | it uses a lot of chemicals and water |
| Given that viscose rayon is relatively weak, why do the designers still use it so much? it is absorbent so it dyes well it gets stronger when it is wet it has a low modulus so it is elastic it doesn't burn like cotton | a) it is absorbent so it dyes well |
| Which of the following is a definition for the term "oleophilic"? the material has an attraction for oil the material has an attraction to water the material is very light in weight the material is made from oil | a) the material has an attraction for oil |
