HUEC3032_Ch12_Quality_Assurance_note-1

HUEC3032_Ch12_Quality_Assurance_note-1 - Quality Assurance...

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Unformatted text preview: Quality Assurance Quality (Chapter 12) HUEC 3032 Objectives of Final Line Evaluation Evaluation – To demonstrate analytical and critical knowledge base in product development acquired throughout the semester – Synthesis of what you learned in this course Objectives Objectives • To define quality in product development • To examine product labeling and safety To standards for apparel products standards • To be familiar with stitches, seams, and To assembly operations that determine product quality quality • To examine various product evaluation To criteria to determine quality criteria Quality Assurance Quality • Is A commitment to quality that permeates Is the entire business & requires a proactive, participatory management style • Inspection focuses(moving toward) Inspection Prevention Prevention • Today, quality is an integral part of Today, management philosophy management Quality expectation by customers Quality • Quality-to-cost ratio – How much customers are willing to pay in How order to have quality order – Measured against what they will give up in Measured order to have a lower price order – Balance the price & quality – Business strategy Product Quality in the Product Development in • Physical features– Include: Design, materials, construction, Include: finishing finishing • Performance features – Aesthetic performance(is it pleasing to the eye) – Functional performance • Fit, comfort, care requirements, durability Quality Standards Quality • Raw material standards – Define components (fabric & findings) – Need to use the right fabrics and the right trims • Garment Standards – Diagnostic tools to measure product quality – Defect guides Quality Standards Quality • Define product’s end use • Tells what product designed to do • Voluntary nature of the standards(not Voluntary regulated) regulated) – Some Mandatory standards • CPSC, Flammability standards Quality Standards Quality • Voluntary company standards – Establish language & measurement methods • ISO (international Organization for ISO Standardization)requirements Standardization)requirements – With some foreign or gov agencies – Certification • Given for proper performance – Deliveries, labeling, sizing Quality Specifications Quality • Evolve from the standards • Provides directions for production & Provides evaluation procedures evaluation • Specification Libraries – Previously developed style, pattern & Previously measurements specifications measurements – Suppliers, product components, regulations Quality Specifications Quality • Voluntary Testing Methods – Assess garment specifications • Raw materials • Construction & finishing Construction – 2 major organizations • AATCC – Develop testing methods • ASTM – Test product performance – For major produsts Quality Specifications Quality • Sizing Specifications – Spec sheet for pattern making and sampling • Provide the measurements, etc. – Includes key measurements points(sleeve, Includes shoulder to shoulder, etc) shoulder Labeling Standards Labeling • FTC (Federal Trade Commission) • Mandatory requirements – – – – Fiber content Manufacturer’s identification Country of origin Care label Labeling - Fiber Content Labeling • Identify generic name(s) of fiber along with Identify content percentage • Trade name & generic identification may be used – E.g., Dacron Polyester E.g., • Major fabric/materials – Over 5 % total weight have to list the generic name – “Other” - Less than 5% (don’t have to list the fibers Other” generic name) generic • Trims more than 15% of the surface – “Exclusive of decoration” • Linings & interlinings(not really req, but included Linings so consumer will know care) so Labeling - Manufacturer ID Labeling • Must be stated on fiber id label • Brand name or FTC identification number • For each manufacturer Labeling - Country of Origin Labeling • All products sold in U.S. • Where product was produced • Where the garment was ‘substantially transformed’ • “807 “ regulations – Set of rules- Us tariff – Value added to apparel assembled in carribean nations Value and Mexico and Labeling - Care • Regulated by FTC • Permanently affixed label with instructions Permanently on regular care on • Figure 12.4, for textile products (ASTM) • 2 exceptions – Any care methods – Interfere with use (e.g., Hosiery) Voluntary Labeling Voluntary • • • • • Trademarks Warrantees Certification Union labels Size designation Trademarks Trademarks • Look-alike trademarks – Counterfeit goods • U.S. Customs – Seize, fine or prosecute owner – SERIOUS ISSUE IN US CUSTOMS SERIOUS SERVICE SERVICE Warranties & Certification Warranties • Implied warranty Implied – Will do what they are designed to do • Written warranty – – – Label, hangtag Legally binding Marketing tool Union Labels Union • Marketing tool • UNITE tag – Most common – Union of Needletrades, Industrial, & Textile Union Employees Employees – Union members produced garment – ONE OF BIGGEST Size Designations Size • Voluntary • Universal practice • EU – Require European sizing charts, metric • Flammability Safety Regulations Safety – Requires use of fabric finishes to retard or Requires prevent the spread of flames prevent – Important concern for household textile • Drawstrings – Children’s outerwear guidelines- not Children’s recommended recommended • Small parts – Choking hazards- buttons on childrens clothing Preproduction Activities Related to Fabric, Findings & Trim to • • • • • Fabric testing, setting specs Wear testing Components of products Characteristic testing Certification of suppliers Specifications for Stitches Specifications • 6 stitch classes – Based on complexity, configuration, and type Based of machine required of – 3 digit # • E.g., 501 stitch – Pages 397– 398– stitches by class • Class 100: chain stitches • Class 200: hand stitch/machine simulations – 1 thread hold 2 pcs of fabric together Stitches Stitches • Class 300: lock stitches – 2 threads – Most common in apparel industry • Class 400: multi-thread chain stitches – Mult thread • Class 500: overedge stitches • Class 600: cover stitches – Most expensive Specifications for Seams Specifications • Seam – Holds together pieces of fabric • Seam allowance – 5/8” home sewing – ½” straight seams – ¼” curves • Superimposed seams (SS) – – – – – Most used, common Fabrics stack on top one another 54 variations Makes flattest appearance Common for side seams Seams • Lapped seams (LP) – – – Overlapping seam allowances 102 variations of this seam Common on jeans Seams Seams • Bound seams (BS) – Encasing raw edges with fabric strips • Flat seams (FS) – Butting raw edges together – 600-class, zigzag to attatch 600-class, – 6 variations • Edge finishes (EF) – Prevent raveling, curling • Hems • Facings Facings Specifications for Assembly Specifications • ______________________________ – Size & color of thread for each seam • Sequential order – Fig. 12.10, page 407 • Tolerances Tolerances • Construction criteria ...
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