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COASTAL PROCESSES

COASTAL PROCESSES - COASTAL PROCESSES LANDFORMS Coastal...

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COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS *** Coastal Components: * coast : * shoreline : contact line between sea and land * littoral zone : from the highest water line to a point where the water is about 200 ft deep (where large waves will first be acted upon the the ocean bottom * beach : coastal zone of sediment shaped by wave action *** Agents : that work on these components; ** Waves: undulations of water produced by wind energy being transferred to water (wave) energy * size determined by wind velocity, direction, duration, & fetch (distance over which the wind blows) * wave components: 1) height : vertical distance between crest & the trough 2) length : horizontal distance from one crest to the next 3) period : time interval between 2 successive crests passing a fixed point * swells : series of open ocean waves * wave of translation : when the swell begins to be affected by the ocean bottom * breaker : * surf : a series of breaking waves * swash : * backwash : ** Wave Refraction : ** Currents: * longshore currents :
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* creates longshore drift or beach drift * rip current : ** Tides:
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