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Unformatted text preview: /T = gT/2pi = 1.56T Speed depends on wavelength and period Shallow-water waves (depth < / 20 ) /T still true but also: velocity (m/sec) = sq.rt(gD) = 3.1 * sq.rt(D) (D is in m) What happens as waves approach the coast? Water depth decreases and keeps decreasing Deepwater waves become shallow-water waves Interaction with bottom decreases orbital velocitybut Period does not change. Wavelength becomes compressed Height must increase Steepness must increase Also: top of wave has greater velocity than base Waves slow, grow, cusp, and break D = / 2 : Waves feel bottom Slow down (at base!) decreases h increases (water is shoved upward) D = 1.3 h: wave steepness = 1/7:...
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- Spring '08