03 - Light waves on top dense below Waves occur between two...

Info iconThis preview shows pages 1–2. Sign up to view the full content.

View Full Document Right Arrow Icon
10/03 Winds and waves: Generation -Depends on duration and fetch - Fetch: Length water over which a given wind has blown - Result is a distribution of wave size (heights) Particle Motion in a Wave - Water Molecule moves at an orbital path @ surface - Frequency: number Wave Propagation - Waves are dispersive: long waves travel faster Importance of Geometry: Refraction - Geometry controls where waves go - Waves of equal depth line up - Deep waves move faster and catch slower ones - Waves slow down as water get shallower - Wave energy decreases in water depth and pushes upward - Back of water moves faster, and wave becomes too high breaks - Also happens in ocean with winds and hurricanes that make it the water too steep They overrun/ break Internal Waves:
Background image of page 1

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Background image of page 2
This is the end of the preview. Sign up to access the rest of the document.

Unformatted text preview: - Light waves on top, dense below- Waves occur between two layers of different densities- Caused by disruptions/ disturbances- Propagates with wobbling by gravity Tsunamis:- Force comes from beneath water, ex. Fault Lines- The whole water column moves and causes MASSIVE amounts of water to be pushed- Also overlaps primary waves, creating a TSUNAMI! Tides: Forcing-Moon pulls on Earth to create waves/ tides Spring and Neap Tides Importance of Geometry: Resonance- Ex. Bay of Fundy is perfect shape for waves to resonate and create massive waves Local Examples: 4m Spring Tides- Wallapa Bay- Skagit Bay Semi Diurnal Tides and Diurnal Tides- Semi Diurnal = Twice a Day Tide- Diurnal = Once a Day- Mixed = Mixed…8...
View Full Document

This note was uploaded on 04/19/2008 for the course OCEAN 250 taught by Professor Dr.clairehorner-devine during the Fall '08 term at University of Washington.

Page1 / 2

03 - Light waves on top dense below Waves occur between two...

This preview shows document pages 1 - 2. Sign up to view the full document.

View Full Document Right Arrow Icon
Ask a homework question - tutors are online