03 - - Light waves on top, dense below- Waves occur between...

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10/03 Winds and waves: Generation -Depends on duration and fetch - Fetch: Length water over which a given wind has blown - Result is a distribution of wave size (heights) Particle Motion in a Wave - Water Molecule moves at an orbital path @ surface - Frequency: number Wave Propagation - Waves are dispersive: long waves travel faster Importance of Geometry: Refraction - Geometry controls where waves go - Waves of equal depth line up - Deep waves move faster and catch slower ones - Waves slow down as water get shallower - Wave energy decreases in water depth and pushes upward - Back of water moves faster, and wave becomes too high breaks - Also happens in ocean with winds and hurricanes that make it the water too steep They overrun/ break Internal Waves:
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Unformatted text preview: - Light waves on top, dense below- Waves occur between two layers of different densities- Caused by disruptions/ disturbances- Propagates with wobbling by gravity Tsunamis:- Force comes from beneath water, ex. Fault Lines- The whole water column moves and causes MASSIVE amounts of water to be pushed- Also overlaps primary waves, creating a TSUNAMI! Tides: Forcing-Moon pulls on Earth to create waves/ tides Spring and Neap Tides Importance of Geometry: Resonance- Ex. Bay of Fundy is perfect shape for waves to resonate and create massive waves Local Examples: 4m Spring Tides- Wallapa Bay- Skagit Bay Semi Diurnal Tides and Diurnal Tides- Semi Diurnal = Twice a Day Tide- Diurnal = Once a Day- Mixed = Mixed8...
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03 - - Light waves on top, dense below- Waves occur between...

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