4-30 - Coastal Processes Coastal Areas Coastal Areas...

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Coastal Processes Coastal Areas Coastal Areas Kinetic energy of moving water impacts edge of land. Coastal Areas Kinetic energy of moving water impacts edge of land. Water motion due to waves and currents. Waves Wind pushes on water’s surface. Wave form develops Waves Waves Waves
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In deep water, only wave shape moves. Waves In deep water, only wave shape moves. Water travels in circular paths below wave form. Waves In shallow water (depth <1/2 wavelength) waves “feel” bottom. Waves In shallow water (depth <1/2 wavelength) waves “feel” bottom. Wave slows and height builds up. Waves In shallow water (depth <1/2 wavelength) waves “feel” bottom.
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Wave slows and height builds up. Top tumbles or “breaks” Typical wavelengths: 15-270 m (50- 900 feet). Typical heights: 0.3-15 (1–50 feet) Longshore Drift Wave direction at angle to shore. Part of energy re-directed along shore. Sand moved along shore. Rip Currents Rip Currents Very dangerous, swimmers can be pulled out to sea.
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