4-30 - Coastal Processes 4-302008-05-22 Coastal Areas...

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Coastal Processes 4-30 16:18 Coastal Areas Kinetic energy of moving water impacts edge of land. Water motion due to waves and currents. Waves Wind pushes on water’s surface. Wave form develops Waves In deep water, only wave shape moves. Water travels in circular paths below wave form. Waves In shallow water (depth <1/2 wavelength) waves “feel” bottom. Wave slows and height builds up. Top tumbles or “breaks” Typical wavelengths: 15-270 m (50-900 feet). Typical heights: 0.3-15 (1–50 feet) Longshore Drift Wave direction at angle to shore. Part of energy re-directed along shore. Sand moved along shore. Rip Currents Very dangerous, swimmers can be pulled out to sea.
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Tides Daily movement of water due to tidal pull of sun and moon. Locally affected by shape of coast and seabed. During largest changes in water levels (“spring tides”), flooding and wave  damage enhanced. Highest in the world: Bay of Fundy, Canada. Up to 55 feet (16.5 m).
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This note was uploaded on 02/14/2009 for the course GEOL 105 taught by Professor Kohut during the Spring '08 term at University of Delaware.

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4-30 - Coastal Processes 4-302008-05-22 Coastal Areas...

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