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Ch10-waves-grsn-text - Chapter 10 Ocean Waves MAIN CONCEPTS...

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10 Chapter Ocean Waves MAIN CONCEPTS Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean's surface Waves are classified by the disturbing force that creates them, the extent to which the disturbing force continues to influence the waves once they are formed, the restoring force that tries to flatten them, and their wavelength. The speed of ocean waves usually depends on their wavelength, with long waves moving fastest.
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10 Chapter Ocean Waves Arranged from short to long wavelengths (and therefore from slowest to fastest), ocean waves are generated by very small disturbances (capillary waves), wind (wind waves), rocking of water in enclosed spaces (seiches), seismic and volcanic activity or other sudden displacements (tsunami), and gravitational attraction (tides). The behavior of a wave depends largely on the relation between the wave's size and the depth of water through which it is moving. Deep water waves move through water deeper than one-half their wavelength. Only wind waves can be deep water waves.
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Ch10-waves-grsn-text - Chapter 10 Ocean Waves MAIN CONCEPTS...

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