Essentials_Ch13 Beaches Mod 3-13-03

Essentials_Ch13 Beaches Mod 3-13-03 - The shoreline - a...

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The shoreline - a dynamic interface ± The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) between air, land, and the ocean ± The shoreline is constantly being modified by waves ± Today the coastal zone is experiencing intense human activity
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Waves ± Wind-generated waves provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines ± Characteristics of Waves ± Waves derive their energy and motion from the wind
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Waves ± Characteristics of Waves ± Parts of a wave Crest – top of the wave Trough – low area between waves ± Measurements of a wave Wave height – the distance between a trough and a crest Wavelength – the horizontal distance between crests
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Wave parts and the movement of water particles
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Waves ± Characteristics of Waves ± Measurements of a wave Wave period – the time interval between the passage of two successive crests ± Height, length, and period of a wave depend on Wind speed Length of time wind has blown Fetch – the distance that the wind has traveled across open water
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Waves ± Types of waves ± Wave of oscillation Wave energy moves forward, not the water itself Occur in the open sea in deep water ± Wave of translation Begins to form in shallower water when the water-depth is about one-half the wavelength and the wave begins to “feel bottom”
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Waves ± Types of waves ± Wave of translation As the speed and length of the wave diminish, the wave grows higher The steep wave front collapses and the wave breaks along the shore Turbulent water advances up the shore and forms surf
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Changes that occur when a wave moves onto shore
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Wave erosion ± Breaking waves exert a great force ± Wave erosion is caused by ± Wave impact and pressure ± Abrasion by rock fragments
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Cliff undercut by wave erosion along the Oregon coast
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Wave refraction and longshore transport ± Wave refraction ± Bending of a wave ± Causes waves to arrive nearly parallel to the shore ± Consequences of wave refraction Wave energy is concentrated against the sides and ends of headlands
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Refraction of waves
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Wave refraction and longshore transport ± Wave refraction ± Consequences of wave refraction Wave energy is spread out in bays and wave attack is weakened
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This note was uploaded on 07/17/2008 for the course GS 100 taught by Professor Leavell during the Spring '06 term at Ohio State.

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Essentials_Ch13 Beaches Mod 3-13-03 - The shoreline - a...

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