Ch20_Outline

Ch20_Outline - Chapter 20 Shorelines The shoreline: A...

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1 Chapter 20 Shorelines The shoreline: A dynamic interface ± The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) between air, land, and the ocean ± The shoreline is constantly being modified by waves ± Today the coastal zone is experiencing intense human activity The coastal zone ± Clarification of terms used to describe the land-sea boundary Shoreline is the line that marks the contact between land and sea The shore is the area that extends between the lowest tide level and the highest elevation on land that is affected by storms
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2 The coastal zone ± Clarification of terms used to describe the land-sea boundary The coast extends inland from the shore as far as ocean-related features are found Coastline marks the coast’s seaward edge The coastal zone ± Shore is divided into the Foreshore – area exposed at low tide Backshore – landward of the high-tide shoreline The nearshore zone lies between the low tide shoreline and the point where waves break at low tide Seaward of the nearshore is the offshore zone The coastal zone ± Beach – an accumulation of sediment found along the landward margin of the ocean or a lake The relatively flat platform composed of sand and marked by a change in slope at the seaward edge is a berm Beach face is the wet sloping surface that extends from the berm to the shoreline
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3 Waves ± Wind-generated waves provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines ± Characteristics of waves Waves derive their energy and motion from the wind Waves ± Characteristics of waves Parts of a wave Crest – top of the wave Trough – low area between waves Measurements of a wave Wave height – the distance between a trough and a crest Wavelength – the horizontal distance between crests Waves ± Characteristics of waves Measurements of a wave Wave period – the time interval between the passage of two successive crests Height, length, and period of a wave depend on Wind speed Length of time wind has blown Fetch – the distance that the wind has traveled across open water
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4 Basic parts of a wave Figure 20.3 Waves ± Types of waves Wave of oscillation Wave energy moves forward, not the water itself Occur in the open sea in deep water Wave of translation Begins to form in shallower water when the water-depth is about one-half the wavelength and the wave begins to “feel bottom” Waves ± Types of waves Wave of translation
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This note was uploaded on 07/17/2008 for the course GS 121 taught by Professor Leavell during the Fall '07 term at Ohio State.

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Ch20_Outline - Chapter 20 Shorelines The shoreline: A...

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