israel-palestinian-territories-8-full-pdf-ebook.pdf - F PD Israel the Palestinian Territories PDF ebook Edition 8th Edition Release Date Oct 2015 Pages

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Unformatted text preview: F PD Israel & the Palestinian Territories PDF ebook Edition 8th Edition Release Date Oct 2015 Pages 440 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use sections How to Use This Book Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 PLAN YOUR TRIP Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. 2 ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. 1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours 4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping z Festivals & Events 8 & Transport Information All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation 3 UNDERSTAND Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see. 4 SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information for a smooth trip. Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection E English-language menu c Family-friendly # Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Israel & the Palestinian Territories Upper Galilee & Golan p220 Lower Galilee & Sea of Galilee Haifa & the North Coast p148 Tel Aviv p183 West Bank p105 p249 Jerusalem The Gaza Strip p40 The Dead Sea p285 p279 The Negev p303 Petra (Jordan) p330 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell, Jenny Walker PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD JERUSALEM . . . . . . . . 40 Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories. . . . 4 Abu Ghosh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Soreq Cave . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Caves of Maresha & Beit-Guvrin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Latrun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Israel & the Palestinian Territories Map. . . . . . . . . . 6 Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top 20 . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 TEL AVIVJAFFA (YAFO) . . . . . . 105 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 22 Herzliya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Netanya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Ramla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Crossing Borders . . . . . . . 30 Travel with Children. . . . . 34 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 36 HAIFA & THE NORTH COAST. . . . . 148 Haifa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Daliyat al-Karmel. . . . . . . . 166 Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Atlit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Ein Hod & Ayn Hawd . . . . . 167 Zichron Ya’acov. . . . . . . . . 169 Mey Kedem. . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Jisr az-Zarka. . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Caesarea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Akko (Acre). . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Nahariya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 ELAN FLEISHER / LOOK-FOTO /GETTY ROEVIN /GETTY IMAGES © THE DEAD SEA P285 LIOR FILSHTEINER /GETTY IMAGES © AKKO P175 OLD PORT BOARDWALK, TEL AVIV P115 Contents UNDERSTAND LOWER GALILEE & SEA OF GALILEE. . . . 183 Nazareth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Kafr Kana. . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Tzipori. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Mt Tabor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Kfar Tavor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Kfar Kisch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Kfar Kama. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Jezreel & Beit She’an Valleys. . . . . . . . . 198 Beit She’an . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Belvoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Beit Alpha Synagogue. . . . 199 Gangaroo Animal Park. . . 200 Ein Harod . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Tiberias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Sea of Galilee . . . . . . . . 208 North of Tiberias . . . . . . . 208 South of Tiberias . . . . . . . . 217 Eastern Shore. . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hamat Gader. . . . . . . . . . 219 UPPER GALILEE & GOLAN. . . . . . . . . . . 220 The Upper Galilee. . . . . . 221 Tsfat (Safed). . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Mt Meron Area . . . . . . . . . . 231 Rosh Pina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Hula Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Kiryat Shmona & Tel Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Metula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 East of Kiryat Shmona. . . 238 The Golan Heights. . . . . . 240 Katzrin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 South of Katzrin. . . . . . . . 242 North of Katzrin. . . . . . . . 244 Northern Golan. . . . . . . . . 246 Israel & the Palestinian Territories Today. . . . . . . 344 WEST BANK. . . . . . . . 249 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Bethlehem. . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Ramallah & Al-Bireh . . . . 262 Jericho & Around. . . . . . . 266 Hebron. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Nablus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Jenin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 THE GAZA STRIP . . . 279 Gaza City. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Khan Younis. . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Rafah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 THE DEAD SEA. . . . . 285 Ein Gedi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Masada. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Ein Bokek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Sodom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Neot HaKikar . . . . . . . . . . . 301 THE NEGEV. . . . . . . . 303 Arad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Be’er Sheva. . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Sde Boker . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Mitzpe Ramon. . . . . . . . . . 312 The Arava. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Eilat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 PETRA . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 The Ancient City. . . . . . . . 332 Wadi Musa . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Siq al-Barid (Little Petra). . . . . . . . . . . 342 People of Israel & the Palestinian Territories . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Hummus & Olives: Regional Food. . . . . . . . . 368 Daily Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Government & Politics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Environment . . . . . . . . . . 392 SURVIVAL GUIDE Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . 398 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 401 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 439 SPECIAL FEATURES Al Haram ash-Sharif/ Temple Mount 3D illustration. . . . . . . . 50 Jerusalem Image Gallery . . . . . . . . 82 Religious Sites . . . . . . 210 Petra Walking Tour 3D illustration. . . . . . 340 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories At the intersection of Asia, Europe and Africa – both geographically and culturally – Israel and the Palestinian Territories have been a meeting place of cultures, empires and religions since history began. Holy Sites Archaeology Cradle of Judaism and Christianity and sacred to Muslims and Baha’is, the Holy Land invites visitors to immerse themselves in the richness and variety of the region’s religious traditions. Ancient Jewish sites include Jerusalem’s Western Wall and Byzantine-era synagogues adorned with sumptuous mosaics. The Roman-era synagogues around the Sea of Galilee may have been used by Jews and Christians before they diverged into separate faiths. Both Christian pilgrims and tourists can explore sites associated with Jesus’s birth (in Bethlehem), ministry (in Nazareth and around the Sea of Galilee) and crucifixion (in Jerusalem). For Muslims, only Mecca and Medina are holier than Jerusalem’s Al-Haram ash-Sharif, known to Jews as the Temple Mount – perhaps the most contested real estate on earth. Thanks to the painstaking work of gener­ ations of archaeologists, modern-day visitors can explore the 10,000-year-old mud-brick relics of Jericho, enter into the world of David and Solomon in Jerusalem’s City of David, and twin a visit to Masada, with its dramatic tale of resistance to the mighty legions of Rome, with a tour of the thoroughfares and theatres of Beit She’an, still pulsing with Roman opulence. Many of the country’s most extraordinary finds – including a 1st-century-BCE manuscript of the book of Isaiah (one of the Dead Sea Scrolls) – are on display in Jerusalem’s Israel Museum. Tel Aviv Brash, forward-looking and unabashedly secular, Tel Aviv is a multicultural swirl of skyscrapers, bike paths, atmospheric cafes, stylish bistros and buff bods tanning on the sand. One of the world’s major centres of high-tech venture capital, the century-old city earned Unesco World Heritage status by virtue of its 1930s-style Bauhaus architecture. Adventures in Nature Few countries have so much geographic variety packed into such a small space. Distances are short, so you can relax on a Mediterranean beach one day, spend the next floating in the mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea, and the day after that scuba diving in the Red Sea. Hikers can trek the length of the country on the Israel National Trail, splash through seasonal streams as they tumble towards the Jordan, explore springfed oases tucked into the arid bluffs above the Dead Sea, and explore the multi-coloured sandstone formations of Makhtesh Ramon. Many trails are ideal for mountain biking. 5 ELAN FLEISHER / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES © Why I Love Israel & the Palestinian Territories By Daniel Robinson, Lonely Planet writer One of the things I most enjoy about life in Israel is the exuberant diversity. Plenty of people look like characters in a Middle Eastern epic, but more interesting are the women and men who defy stereotypes and convention, crossing religious, cultural, artistic and culinary boundaries to bridge seemingly irreconcilable differences. The results – played out against a backdrop of desert wildflowers, sandy beaches, snowy peaks and cityscapes both modern and ancient – are inspiring, confounding, contradictory and, not infrequently, astonishingly delicious! For more about our writers, see page 440 Above: Sunset over Tel Aviv (p105) Bethlehem The original Nativity scene (p253) Ashdod Gaza City Ashkelon Gaza Strip Tel Aviv Beaches, cafes and Bauhaus architecture (p105) Caesarea Ancient Roman theatre and port (p171) SEA MEDITERRANEAN Baha'i Gardens Exquisitely landscaped lawns and flowerbeds (p150) Akko (Acre) Crusader ruins, Ottoman walled city (p175) Tsfat (Safed) Ancient centre of Jewish mysticism (p221) Jaffa Kiryat Gat Rishon LeZion Beit Guvrin Nablus Mt Gerizim (881m) Mt Ebal (940m) Ein Gedi Herodian Nebi Musa Bethlehem Ramallah Hebron JERUSALEM Abu Ghosh Afula Jenin Megiddo Nazareth Sea of Galilee Dead Sea Qumran Jericho AMMAN 50 km 25 miles Mafraq Beit She'an Dramatic Roman ruins (p198) Deraa Nazareth Holy sites and fusion cuisine (p184) SYRIA Sea of Galilee Cerulean backdrop to Jesus's ministry (p208) Golan Heights Wildflowers, canyons, volcanoes and snow (p240) The Dead Sea Lowest, saltiest place on earth (p285) Jerusalem Historic, holy and hotly contested (p40) Irbid The Golan Quneitra Beit She'an Tiberias The Galilee Rosh Pina 0 0 Banias Nature Reserve Kiryat Shmona Tsfat Capernaum LEBANON Montfort Nahariya Peqi'in Akko Karmiel West Bank Caesarea Ramla Rehovot TEL AVIV Netanya Hadera Atlit Haifa Rosh HaNikra Tyre Israel & the Palestinian Territories Jordan River River Jordan Makhtesh Ramon Tremendous canyon in the midst of the Negev (p312) Al-Arish Rafah Khan Younis EGYPT (Sinai) Mt Har Ramon (1035m) Shivta sh khte Mitzpe Ramon on Red Aqaba Sea Eilat Ram Mamshit Dimona Tel Arad En Avdat National Park The Negev Taba Ma Be'er Sheva Arad Petra Kerak Wadi Musa JORDAN Masada Maan 0 150m 300m 500m 1000m ELEVATION Petra Nabataeans' magical, red canyon city (p330) Masada Jewish stronghold against the Romans (p296) 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top 20 9 Dome of the Rock The Dead Sea The first sight of Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock (p49) – its gold top shimmering above a turquoise-hued octagonal base – never fails to take your breath away. Perhaps that’s what the unknown architects had in mind more than 1300 years ago when they set to work on this impossibly gorgeous building. The best view, some say, is from the Mount of Olives, but don’t miss the chance to see it up close by taking an early-morning walk up to the Temple Mount/Al-Haram ash-Sharif. You pass a sign reading ‘Sea Level’ and then keep driving downhill, eventually catching glimpses of the cobalt-blue waters of the Dead Sea (p285), outlined by snow-white salt deposits, reddish-tan cliffs and tufts of dark-green vegetation. At the oasis of Ein Gedi you can hike through steep canyons to crystal-clear pools and tumbling waterfalls before climbing to the Judean Desert plateau above – or heading down to the seashore for a briny, invigorating dip. To the south around Mt Sodom, outdoor options include adventure cycling along dry riverbeds. 1 2 KORD.COM / GETTY IMAGES © KATERYNA NEGODA / GETTY IMAGES © 10 3 4 ARTHUR TILLEY / GETTY IMAGES © GRANT FAINT / GETTY IMAGES © PL A N YO U R TRI P I s r a e l & t h e Pa l e s t i n i a n T e r r i t o r i e s ’ T o p 2 0 Tel Aviv Beaches 3 A bit over a century ago, Tel Aviv was little more than sand dunes. Now it’s a sprawling city bursting with bars, bistros and boutiques – but the beach (p121) is still the epi­centre of life. Here, sunbathers bronze their bods while the more athletic swim, surf, sail and play intense games of matkot (beach tennis). Each Tel Aviv beach has its particular attractions – on-the-sand cafe tables, beach racquet­ ball, shallow water for toddlers, a sex-­segregated section for traditional Jews and Muslims – but all offer a sensual welcome to the warm, deep-blue waters of the Mediterranean. Golan Heights 4 From towering Nimrod Fortress, the ‘Galilee Panhandle’ (p240) spreads out before you like a topographical map. But the looming flanks of Mt Hermon, snow capped well into spring, dwarf even this Crusader-era stronghold. Hikers can take on the alpine peaks of Mt Hermon or follow the cliff-lined wadis of the Banias and Yehudiya Nature Reserves on their way to the Jordan River and the Sea of Galilee. The Golan’s basalt soils are ideal for growing grapes, so the local boutique wines are some of Israel’s finest. Above right: Nimrod Fortress (p246) Western Wall 5 In Israel they say that every rock is holy in some way, but for Jews the holiest stones of all are those that make up the Western Wall (p59), the 2000-year-old western retaining wall of the Temple Mount. For centuries Jews have come here to pray and to mourn the destruction of the First and Second Temples. The wall’s enormous stones, worn smooth by countless caresses, have an almost magnetic power, drawing close the hands and foreheads of the faithful, who come in search of a deep, direct connection with God. 11 5 Built on what St Hel­ ena – Constantine the Great’s mother – believed to be the site of Jesus’s crucifixion and burial, Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre (p54) is the holiest place in the world for many Christians. In darkened chambers infused with spirituality, a variety of Christian denominations keep alive here some of the oldest traditions of their faith. Visitors are welcome to join the parade of re­s­ plen­dently garbed clergy and simply dressed pilgrims as they shuffle reverently through candle-lit corridors redolent with incense. GAVIN HELLIER / GETTY IMAGES © 6 6 PL A N YO U R TRI P I s r a e l & t h e Pa l e s t i n i a n T e r r i t o r i e s ’ T o p 2 0 JAMES L. STANFIELD / GETTY IMAGES © Church of the Holy Sepulchre 12 Baha’i Gardens Masada Fusing religious symbolism, breathtaking views and meticulous gardening, the 19 terraces of Haifa’s Baha’i Gardens (p150) present visitors with a sublime expression of humankind’s striving for beauty. The gold-domed Shrine of the Bab sits in the middle of the gardens, and tier after tier of geometric flower beds, immaculate lawns, sculptures and fountains cascade down the slopes of Mt Carmel, offering pilgrims and tourists alike a sense of incredible serenity. The Romans had just destroyed Jerusalem when about a thousand Jewish Zealots took refuge on a remote mesa overlooking the Dead Sea. As you peer down from their towering redoubt (p296), you can still see the eight encircling Roman camps, connected by a siege wall, making it easy to imagine the dramatic, tragic events that unfolded here in early 73 CE. Eventually the Romans built a ramp and breached the walls, but all they found were a handful of survivors – everyone else had committed suicide rather than submit to slavery. 7 8 ANTHONY PIDGEON / GETTY IMAGES © PL A N YO U R TRI P I s r a e l & t h e Pa l e s t i n i a n T e r r i t o r i e s ’ T o p 2 0 7 8 DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © 13 9 10 WEIMIN LIU / GETTY IMAGES © Tsfat (Safed) 9 The spirit of the 16th-century rabbis who turned Tsfat (p221) into the world’s most important centre of Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism) lingers in the alleyways and ancient synagogues of the Synagogue Quarter and in the nearby Artists’ Quarter, where intimate galleries offer creative, joyous Judaica (Jewish ritual objects). A Kabbalistic vibe is also palpable in the hillside cemetery, where some of Judaism’s greatest sages – the Ari, Yitzhak Luria, Yosef Caro – lie buried. Above left: Market, Synagogue Quarter (p221) Petra 10 Hidden deep in the red-rock mountains of southern Jordan, the ancient Nabataean capital of Petra (p330) is one of the world’s most extraordinary archaeological treasures. Highlights include the Hellenistic-style Treasury, carved in its entirety out of the sandstone cliff face – and given heaps of free publicity thanks to Indiana Jones. The ‘rose-red city half as old as time’ and its modern neighbour, the tourist town of Wadi Musa, are just a two-hour drive from Eilat’s Yitzhak Rabin border crossing. Top right: The Treasury (Al-Khazneh; p332) Caesarea 11 Hugely impressive Roman ruins make it easy to imagine city life here two millennia ago, when crowds in the amphitheatre cheered wildly as slaves fought wild animals and the theatre hosted top musical talent – as it still does today. The remains of Herod’s vast port (p171), built to rival Alexandria, have been turned into one of the loveliest spots in Israel for a seaside meal or a cold beer. For a look underneath the harbour’s turquoise waters, book an introductory scuba dive. Above bottom right: Caesarea harbour PL A N YO U R TRI P I s r a e l & t h e Pa l e s t i n i a n T e r r i t o r i e s ’ T o p 2 0 NEIL FARRIN / GETTY IMAGES © DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © 11 14 Nazareth Akko (Acre) The village where Jesus grew up has also grown up and is now a bustling Arab city (p274). In the Old City, narrow alleyways are graced with churches commemorating New Testament events, and with Ottoman-era mansions. A new generation of restaurants has made Nazareth a star in Israel’s gastronomic firmament. Alongside delicious old-time specialities, served with traditional Arab hospit­ ality, you can...
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