1)goodbad_rules.pdf - Monster Enhancers Certain cards...

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Unformatted text preview: Monster Enhancers Certain cards, called monster enhancers, raise or lower the combat strength of individual monsters. (Yes, you can have a negative enhancement.) Monster enhancers may be played by any player during any combat. If there are multiple monsters in a combat, the person who plays each enhancer must choose which monster it applies to. All enhancers on a single monster add together. If Ornery, Rootin’ Tootin’, and Hung-Over are played together, in any order, you are facing an ornery, rootin’ tootin’, hung-over monster. Good luck . . . Yer Trail Buddies Sidekicks and Cheating Sidekicks Steeds Sidekicks are found in the Door deck. You can play a Sidekick at any time, even in combat, as long as you have only one Sidekick in play at a time. If you draw a face-up Sidekick, you may put it in your hand if you cannot (or don’t want to) put it in play. You may discard a Sidekick at any time. A Sidekick is not an Item unless it has a price on it (and none of the ones in this set have prices). A Sidekick can sacrifice himself for you. If you lose a fight, then instead of rolling to run away, you may discard one Sidekick and anything he is carrying. You automatically escape from all monsters in the fight, even if a monster card says escape is impossible. If someone was helping you in the fight, YOU decide whether that person automatically escapes as well, or must roll to escape. Some Sidekicks give you extra hands, or (in other sets) let you carry an extra Big item. In this case, the Sidekick does not actually have any items . . . he just increases your own abilities. If something happens to the Sidekick, your items are not affected. Some Sidekicks (not those in this set, heh heh) can specifically carry and use an Item themselves. In some cases, a Sidekick can use an item you cannot use for yourself. The items a Sidekick carries count for you and are affected by Traps and Bad Stuff as though you were carrying them yourself. If your Sidekick has an item: • If your Sidekick sacrifices himself for you, any items he was carrying are lost. • If your Sidekick is killed, you loot the body yourself and keep the items. • If your Sidekick is taken away by a Trap, by Bad Stuff, or by a change in loyalty, the items go with him! Items – Playing Them Any Item card may be played to the table as soon as you get it, or at any time during your own turn. Items – Using Them Any one-shot item can be played during any combat, whether you have it in your hand or on the table. (Some one-shot items, such as the Wishing Ring, may also be used outside of combat.) Other items cannot be used unless they are active. Items turned sideways cannot help you, even if you could otherwise legally use them. Other Treasures Other Treasure cards are “specials” (like “Go Up a Level”). You may play these at any time, unless the card itself says otherwise. Follow the card’s instructions, then discard it, unless it has a persistent bonus like an Item. Traps If drawn face-up, during the “Kick Open a Door” phase, Trap cards apply to the person who drew them. If drawn face-down or acquired some other way, Trap cards may be played on ANY player at ANY time. Any time, do you hear me? Reducing someone’s abilities just as he thinks he has killed a monster is a lot of fun. Usually, a Trap affects its victim immediately (if it can) and is discarded. However, some Traps give a penalty later in the game or have a continuing effect. Keep these cards until you get rid of the Trap or the penalty takes effect. If someone plays a “your next combat” Trap on you while you are in combat, it counts in that combat! (Trap cards you keep as a reminder may not be discarded to power Class abilities. Nice try!) If a Trap can apply to more than one item, the victim decides which item is lost or trapped. If a Trap applies to something you don’t have, ignore it. For instance, if you draw Lose Your Armor and you have no armor, nothing happens; discard the card. There will be times when it will help you to play a Trap or Monster on yourself, or to “help” another player in a way that costs him treasure. This is very munchkinly. Do it. Sidekicks and Monster Bonuses Each Sidekick in this set is either male or female, and the drawing makes it obvious which. If (for instance) you have the Schoolmarm Sidekick and you face a monster that gets a bonus against females, it gets the bonus against you unless you immediately discard the sidekick. However, Bad Stuff does not affect sidekicks unless it specifically mentions them, so ignore your sidekick’s sex when determining what a monster does to you. Sidekicks and Sex Classes These cards may be played to the table as soon as they are acquired, or at any time during your own turn. Super Munchkin may be played similarly, but you must have a Class to play it. 5 Pardner, don’t even THINK about it. The sex of your hireling does not matter except with monster reactions (above) or if you want to have it carry an item that is male- or female-only. In that case, the Sidekick is of the sex shown on its card. Any card that can change a player’s sex can change a Sidekick’s sex, if someone chooses to use it that way. Treating Steeds as Monsters A Cheat! card can be used to give you an extra Sidekick. A player who draws a face-up Steed may choose to treat it as a monster instead. In that case, its Level is equal to twice the combat bonus at the top of the card, and defeating it is good for one Treasure and one level. The Bad Stuff for any Steed attacked as a monster is “Lose a level.” Dear to a Munchkin’s heart is his loyal Steed. Because, of course, it gives bonuses. Steeds are found in the Door deck. No player can have more than one Steed except by using a Cheat! card. Steeds are Items, and follow normal Item rules. Anything that affects an Item can affect a Steed. Steeds carry themselves. A Steed is “big,” but it does not count against the number of Big items you can carry (in fact, some let you carry more Big things). The “big” designation on Steeds is to control what Traps affect them, and to keep Thieves, in a crossover game, from pocketing them and walking off with them. There are also a few Items that specifically enhance Steeds. Steeds cannot use items unless the Item card specifically says so, and “item enhancers” don’t affect Steed items. If a Steed has a bonus or penalty to Run Away, that replaces the bonus or penalty of the rider. If your Steed gives you a penalty to Run Away, you may discard the Steed before you roll to flee. You don’t suffer the penalty, but the Steed card goes to the discard pile. Super-Sized Munchkin Studies have shown that 8.4 out of 9.7 Munchkin players just can’t get enough of the game. Here are some ideas to take your Munchkin games to new heights – or lows: Combining different Munchkin sets. You can mix two (or more) base sets and expansions together for a genre-crossing mega-Munchkin adventure! Space plus Old West? Kung fu vampires? No problem! Expansions. Most of the Munchkin core sets have expansions that add still more monsters to kill, new Treasure to loot, and sometimes entirely new kinds of cards. Ask at your friendly local game store, or visit to buy directly from us. Turn it up to EPIC! Playing to Level 10 just isn’t enough for some people. To satisfy their insane cravings, we’ve created Epic Munchkin, a new set of rules that gives all your Munchkin sets that high-octane boost you need to make it up to Level 20! Look for it on our online PDF store, e23.sjgames.com – it’s completely, absolutely FREE! All of the above!!! Faster Play Rules For a faster game, you can add a “phase 0” called Listen At The Door. At the start of your turn, draw a face-down Door card, which you may play or not. Then arrange cards and Kick Open The Door normally. If you Loot The Room, draw a face-down Treasure, not a Door. You can also allow shared victories – if a player reaches Level 10 in a fight where he had a helper, the helper also wins the game, no matter what Level he is. Game Design by Steve Jackson Illustrated by John Kovalic Development Help and Prepress Checking: Monica Stephens Chief Operating Officer: Philip Reed Munchkin Czar: Andrew Hackard Munchkin Hireling: Leonard Balsera Production Artists: Alex Fernandez and Ben Williams Marketing Director: Monica Valentinelli Director of Sales: Ross Jepson Deputy Playtesters: Jimmie Bragdon, Richard Dodson, Sascha M. Doepper, Andrew Hackard, Jan Hendriks, Urszula Jarych, Richard Kerr, Birger Krämer, James Martinson, Jeff Schaefer, Randy Scheunemann, Jason Swanson, Nicholas Vacek, Loren Wiseman, Duncan Wright, Erik Zane, and the Austin Blizzard crew Heinous card suggestions from: Marek Ctrnáct, J.G. Delmendo, Asher Densmore-Lynn, Jan Hendriks, Patrick Herfst, Kelly Merrell, Eric S. Raymond, and Benjamin Waddell Munchkin, The Good, the Bad, and the Munchkin, Warehouse 23, e23, the all-seeing pyramid, and the names of all products published by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated are trademarks or registered trademarks of Steve Jackson Games Incorporated, or used under license. Dork Tower characters copyright © John Kovalic. The Good, the Bad, and the Munchkin is copyright © 2007, 2010, 2012 by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated. All rights reserved. Rules version 1.61 (February 2012). goodbad.worldofmunchkin.com 6 THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE MUNCHKIN TM It’s how the West was won . . . by kicking down doors, killing things, and taking their stuff. Now the Munchkins are Cowboys, Indians, Outlaws, and Dudes . . . and they’re facing the perils of the Wild West for a fistful of treasures and a few levels more! The Good, the Bad, and the Munchkin is based on the original Munchkin and can be combined with it, as well as any or all of the other Munchkin card games (see the last page). This game includes 168 cards, one six-sided die, and these rules. Setup Three to six can play. You will need 10 tokens (coins, poker chips, whatever – or any gadget that counts to 10) for each player. Divide the cards into the Door deck and the Treasure deck. Shuffle both decks. Deal four cards from each deck to each player. Card Management Keep separate face-up discard piles for the two decks. You may not look through the discards unless you play a card that allows you to! When a deck runs out, reshuffle its discards. If a deck runs out and there are no discards, nobody can draw any of that kind of card! In Play: These are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your Class (if any) and the Items you are carrying. Continuing Traps and some other cards also stay on the table after you play them. Your Hand: Cards in your hand are not in play. They don’t help you, but they can’t be taken away except by cards that specifically affect “your hand.” At the end of your turn, you may have no more than five cards in your hand. When Cards Can Be Played: Each type of card can be played at a specified time (see p. 4). Contradictions Between Cards and Rules This rulesheet gives the general rules. Cards may add special rules, so in most cases when the rulesheet disagrees with a card, follow the card. However, ignore any card effect that might seem to contradict one of the rules listed below unless the card explicitly says it supersedes that rule! 1. Nothing can reduce a player below Level 1, although card effects might reduce a player’s or a monster’s combat strength (p. 2) below 1. 2. You go up a level after combat only if you kill a monster. 3. You cannot collect rewards for defeating a monster (e.g., Treasure, levels) in the middle of a combat. You must finish the fight before gaining any rewards. 4. You must kill a monster to reach Level 10. Any other disputes should be settled by loud arguments, with the owner of the game having the last word. You could also read the Munchkin FAQ and errata pages at , or start a discussion at forums.sjgames.com . . . unless it’s more fun to argue. Cards in play may not be returned to your hand – they must be discarded or traded if you want to get rid of them. Character Creation Everyone starts as a Level 1 character with no class. (We never get tired of that joke.) Look at your initial eight cards. If you have any Class cards, you may (if you like) play one by placing it in front of you. If you have any usable Items (p. 4), you may play them by placing them in front of you. If you have any doubt about whether you should play a card, you could read below, or you could just charge ahead and do it. Starting and Finishing the Game Combat Decide who goes first in any way you can agree on. (Snicker.) Play proceeds in turns, each with several phases (see below). When the first player finishes his turn, the player to his left takes a turn, and so on. The first player to reach 10th level wins . . . but you must reach 10th level by killing a monster, unless a card specifically allows you to win another way. To fight a monster, compare its combat strength to yours. Combat strength is the total of Level plus all modifiers – positive or negative – given by items and other cards. If the monster’s combat strength is equal to yours, or greater, you lose the combat and must Run Away – see below. If your combat strength totals more than the monster’s, you kill it and go up a level (two for some big monsters). You’ll also get the number of Treasures shown on its card. Sometimes a card will let you get rid of the monster without killing it. This is still “winning,” but you don’t get a level. Sometimes, depending on the card, you might not get the treasure, either. Some monster cards have special powers that affect combat – a bonus against a Class, for instance. Be sure to check these. One-shot items may be played directly from your hand during combat. You can also use one-shot items that you already had in play. One-shot items say “Usable once only.” Discard these cards after the combat, whether you win or lose. Some Door cards may also be played into a combat, such as monster enhancers (see p. 5). While you are in combat, you cannot sell, steal, equip, unequip, or trade items, or play items (except for one-shots) from your hand. Once you expose a monster card, you must resolve the fight with your equipment as it stands, plus any one-shot items you choose to play. Discard the monster card, including any enhancers and one-shot items played, and draw treasure (see below). But note: someone may play a hostile card on you, or use a special power, just as you think you have won. When you kill a monster, you must wait a reasonable time, defined as about 2.6 seconds, for anyone else to speak up. After that, you have really killed the monster, and you really get the level(s) and treasure, though they can still whine and argue. Turn Phases At the start of your turn, you may play cards, switch items from “in use” to “carried” or vice versa, trade items with other players, and sell items for levels. When your cards are arranged the way you want, go to phase 1. (1) Kick Open The Door: Draw one card from the Door deck and turn it face up. If it’s a monster, you must fight it. See Combat. Resolve the combat completely before you go on. If you kill it, go up a level (or two, for some especially nasty monsters!) and take the appropriate number of Treasures.. If the card is a trap – see Traps, p. 5 – it applies to you immediately (if it can) and is discarded. If you draw any other card, you may either put it in your hand or play it immediately. (2) Look For Trouble: If you did NOT draw a monster when you first opened the door, you now have the option of playing a monster (if you have one) from your hand and fighting it, just as if you had found it when you kicked open the door. Don’t play a monster you can’t handle, unless you’re sure you can count on getting help! Fighting Multiple Monsters Some cards (notably Wandering Monster) allow your rivals to send other monsters to join the fight. You must defeat their combined combat strengths. Any special abilities, such as fighting with your Level only, apply to the entire fight. If you have the right cards, you can eliminate one monster from the combat and fight the other(s) normally, but you cannot choose to fight one and run from the other(s). If you eliminate one with a card but then run from the other(s), you don’t get any Treasure! (3) Loot The Room: If you did not find a monster by kicking open the door and you did not Look For Trouble, you loot the room . . . draw a second card from the Door deck, face down, and place it in your hand. If you met a monster but ran away, you don’t get to loot the room. Asking For Help (4) Charity: If you have more than five cards in your hand, you must play enough of them to get down to five, or give the excess to the player with the lowest Level. If players are tied for lowest, divide the cards as evenly as possible, but it’s up to you who gets the bigger set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are the lowest or tied for lowest, just discard the excess. It is now the next player’s turn. 2 If you cannot win a combat on your own, you may ask any other player to help you. If he refuses, you may ask another player, and so on, until they all turn you down or someone helps. Only one player can help you, adding his combat strength to yours. Anyone can play cards to affect your combat, however! You can bribe someone to help. In fact, you’ll probably have to. You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has. If you offer him part of the monster’s treasure, you must agree whether he picks first, or you pick first, or whatever. The special abilities or vulnerabilities of the monster also apply to your helper, and vice versa. For instance, if you are not a Cowboy, but a Cowboy helps you, the Mechanical Bull will be at a -3 against you. But if you are facing the Killer Jalapeño and a Dude helps you, the foe’s combat strength is increased by 3 (unless you, too, are a Dude and the foe’s combat strength has already been increased . . . don’t increase it twice). If someone successfully helps you, the monster is slain. Discard it, draw treasure (see below), and follow any special instructions on the monster card. You go up a level for each slain monster. Your helper does not go up. You draw the Treasure cards, even if it was your helper’s special ability that defeated the monster. Interfering With Combat You can interfere with others’ combats in several ways: Use a one-shot item. You could help another player by using a one-shot item against the monster. Of course, you can “accidentally” hit your friend with the one-shot item, and it will count against him. Play a card to modify a monster. These cards (usually) make a monster stronger . . . and give it more treasure. You can play these either during your own combats or during someone else’s combat. Play a Wandering Monster along with a monster from your hand to join any combat. Trap them, if you have a Trap card. Death Treasure Items If you die, you lose all your stuff. You keep your Class(es) and Level (and any Traps that were affecting you when you died) – your new character will look just like your old one. Looting The Body: Lay out your hand beside the cards you had in play. Starting with the one with the highest Level, each other player chooses one card . . . in case of ties in level, roll a die. If your corpse runs out of cards, tough. After everyone gets one card, the rest are discarded. Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not even Charity, and cannot level up. Your new character appears when the next player begins his turn and can help others in combat . . . but you have no cards. On your next turn, start by drawing four cards from each deck, face-down, and playing any Class or Item cards you want to, just as when you started the game. Then take your turn normally. When you defeat a monster, either by killing it or using a card to eliminate it, you get its Treasure. Each monster has a Treasure number on the bottom of its card. Draw...
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  • Fall '09
  • Playing card, Miss Kitty, Steve Jackson Games

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