Lecture2_WavesI.pdf - Lecture 2 Wave equations Lecture 2...

This preview shows page 1 - 6 out of 21 pages.

Lecture 2: Wave equationsLecture 2: Wave equations
Wave equations and characteristicsWhy study waves and wave characteristicsA major sources of forces on offshore and coastal structuresWave forces (wind waves, ship-generated waves, tsunamis, and the tide)Navigation, military and recreational purposesMethods of study?Experimentation (lab and field)Empirical formulaeObservations (Lab and field)Empirical formulaeWave theoriesLecture 2: Wave equations
Definition of wavesWater waves are periodicfluctuations of the water levelLecture 2: Wave equations
Types of surface wavesCapillary waves: surface tension is important in determining wave motions (very small in wave length and height (in mm)Ship waves: more important in harboursWind waves: of greatest interests to coastal and offshore engineersSwell, tide and tsunamis are also important to coastal and offshore engineersFrom Sorensen (1978)It is convenient to group them based on period of fluctuationLecture 2: Wave equations
Seas and SwellSeas: waves generated locally by wind;Consist of waves of different periods and heightsPropagate largely in wind directionSwell: Waves generated remotely Long wave period and small wave heights [We will come back to this later in the lecture]Seas and swell often occur simultaneouslyLecture 2: Wave equations

  • Left Quote Icon

    Student Picture

  • Left Quote Icon

    Student Picture

  • Left Quote Icon

    Student Picture