Shorelines and Coastal Processes

Shorelines and Coastal Processes - Shorelines and Coastal...

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Shorelines and Coastal Processes 21/03/2008 12:57:00 Why do we care? People love the coast Transport/shipping/engineering Geologists reconstruct o Depositional environments o Tectonic activity Shoreline is an interface between ocean and land It is a dynamic….. WAVES     Waves in open water (waves of oscillation) Wave: Energy propagating through water o Water (and stuff in water) only moves back and forth Energy in waves from wind o Also earthquake, submarine landslides, etc. Characteristics of waves Wavelength (distance from one wave crest to the next)  Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough At some point you get far enough below the surface so that you don’t feel the  waves Wave base: wave motion of the water extends to about one-half the  wavelength (20 to 200m)
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