2A8F01FC-C9C9-4385-BE9D-F245D1001F4D.jpeg - Three factors that affect the height and length of waves and velocity are 1 wind speed 2 Wind duration 3

2A8F01FC-C9C9-4385-BE9D-F245D1001F4D.jpeg - Three factors...

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Unformatted text preview: Three factors that affect the height and length of waves and velocity are : 1 ) wind speed 2 ) Wind duration 3 ) Fetch ( distance over which wind blows ) 20 of wave length = surf zone As waves approach the shore , they are refracted ( beat ) . As waves approach and impact the shore, they move -sand Two ways of moving sand . 1 ) Longshore transport w/in surf zone. 2) Beach drift Chas Coastal Zone shoreline low tide high tide ), Berm Dunes Foreshore , F Backshore Ra Coast offshore ; near shore i f shore Coastal land forms Waves never stop ; shoreline is always affected Erosion us . Deposition spit ? barrier is wave - cut cliff < sea arch bay mouth bar wave - cut . platform 2 sea stack tumbolo marine terrace limestone tied island...
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  • Fall '10
  • JamesWilkerson

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