chapter 13

chapter 13 - Chapter 13 Chapter Fashion Fashion Accessories...

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Unformatted text preview: Chapter 13 Chapter Fashion Fashion Accessories Accessories HUEC 2045 Spring 2009 Accessories Accessories Constantly forecast changes and cycles Blend, follow or lead, and innovate Footwear, handbags, gloves, hats, Footwear, neckwear, eyewear, and jewelry neckwear, Footwear Footwear Primitive people Handicraft Variations Shoes, slippers, athletic shoes, and Shoes, boots boots Men, women, children Chinese Feet Binding Chinese Organization & Operation Organization Began in New England Ninewest, Timberland Shifted to Midwest Nike Largest shoe producer in U.S. Does not own manufacturing facilities Does Focuses on marketing (wholesaler) Imports Imports Dress shoes Higher price points Italy Production Production Last- wooden, plastic, or aluminum forms in wooden, shape of a foot, over which the shoes are constructed constructed More exact measurements llasts, material quality, and number and type asts, of operations determine of Quality & Price Giant companies dominate industry Women’s Shoes Women’s After WWII Age and income lines High-fashion Other manufacturers (Ninewest, Kenneth Cole) Medical health conditions Fashion leadership Hollywood, Sex & the City Footwear Footwear Women’s Shoes Pierre Hardy Ferragamo Sergio Rossi Hilfiger Manolo Blahnik Men’s Shoes Men’s Dress shoes Once most important sales category Currently, a niche market Dress/casual and casual shoes At one point, only acceptable for ages18-25 At Timberland, Sebago, Rockport, Stride Rite, Red Wing Timberland, Shoes Shoes Florsheim, Johnston & Murphy Produced abroad Clark’s (England), Bally (Switzerland), Ferragamo, Clark’s Gucci, Bruno Magli (Italy) Gucci, Children’s Shoes Children’s Stories of magical shoes Cinderella, Dorothy, Puss in Boots Wear and tear Outgrow Outgrow Active participant Conformity Conformity Adaptations of adult styles Materials Materials Leather, vinyl, substitutes, plastics, canvas Athletic shoes Identification Trend of school uniforms, less likely to see athletic shoes Charles Goodyear “sneakers” sneakers” Vulcanizing process for rubber in late 1800sbonding rubber soles to canvas tops bonding Keds Converse, Inc.: All Star Athletic Shoes Athletic Casual dress trend Specialized industry Walking, running, climbing, aerobics, Walking, racquetball, biking, hiking, golf racquetball, “super specialty” shoes in specialty sporting goods super stores stores Footwear Shoes Trends Clothing designers designing shoes Clothing Tremendous growth of overseas manufacturing Strong relationship between shoes and the clothes Strong with which they are worn with Retailers coordinating shoes and apparel Merchandising & Marketing Merchandising NYC (FFANY) Fashion Footwear Association of (FFANY) New York New 300 corporations & 800 brand names New York Shoe Expo (3/year) (AAFA) American Apparel & Footwear (AAFA) Association Association National trade association representing apparel, National footwear footwear Brand names Payless Shoe Source Industry Trends Industry 2.2 billion prs of shoes/year (purchased) 98% manufactured overseas 84% made in China Important to coordinate with fashion trends Donna Karen Donna Highly competitive-Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Highly Ferragamo, Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin Louboutin Handbags Handbags When first introduced, handbags were When nondescript, utilitarian items nondescript, Today’s handbags are designed to send Today’s specific statements about the owner specific Like many other domestic fashion industries, Like the handbag manufacturing industry continues to shrink, while imports from Europe, South America, and the Far East increase America, Handbags Handbags Best selling classification in the Best accessories industry accessories Designer “it” bags Fashion coordination concept Casual, sportswear, more formal Send messages, personal statements Professional, student, at home mom, etc. Handbags Handbags While a few domestic names remain While important, i.e., Coach, the majority of fashion initiative and status rests with European firms such as: European Vuitton Gucci Hermes Ferragam o Chanel Prada Coach Chanel Backpacks Backpacks gained favor with men who don’t have gained room for everything they have to carry in pockets or briefcases pockets remain popular with boys and girls remain from kindergarten through college from Gloves Until the 16th century, only clergy or nobility were allowed to wear gloves, as they denoted rank or authority denoted • A staple of societal dress codes staple since Egyptian times since • casualty of casual dress revolution of the 60s • never recovered Millinery History in Society •Initially protective-- derivative of the medieval helmet • protected man from: blows to the head sunlight close scrutiny through the 19th & 20th c. •Late 20th century they evolved to denote status •Americans wanted to distinguish themselves from immigrant peasants by wearing nice-looking hats Millinery Millinery Unlike gloves, however, they have staged a comeback Some reasons stand out: Fierce winters in the late 90s Karl Lagerfeld and Ralph Lauren constantly Karl featured flamboyant hats in their runway shows shows Harmful effects of sun exposure Baseball caps are requirements for young Baseball men, and are seen increasingly on fashionable young women fashionable Millinery 60s & 70s: suffered terrific losses due to the 60s casual dress approach and elaborate women’s hairstyles hairstyles National Millinery Institute researched, publicized and campaigned in a vast, unsuccessful effort to reverse the trend reverse As we know, no amount of sales promotion As can change the direction of a fashion movement movement Millinery Millinery A milliner fitting and adjusting a glamorous hat Philiip Treacy design on the runway Men and children are increasingly conscious of their accessory choices, including hats, jewelry, sunglasses, and shoes Hats have become a musthave item for hip-hop wear Eyewear Protection from UV rays Increased fashion Increased presence presence Marketing created a $2.7 Marketing billion sunglass industry billion Stand-alone kiosks Stand-alone devoted to eyewear exist in virtually every mall in the country the Designers have Designers capitalized on the movement, creating frames for glasses frames Jewelry Divided into 3 categories: • Fine: high end precious. Often leased in high department stores department • Costume: can be made of many different can materials and occupies the lowest price point segment in the classification segment • Bridge: middle ground for metals and stones. middle Cousin of RTW, provides price points between fine and costume between Fine Jewelry Fine Precise metals-gold and Precise platinum are used to make fine jewelry make Stones used are called Stones gemstones that always gemstones come from natural mineral formations. (most precious are diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires) rubies, handcraft industry handcraft fine jewelry houses fine design, produce and retail retail Tiffany, Cartier, Van Cleef Tiffany, & Arpels, Bulgari Arpels, Costume Fashion Jewelry Costume Equivalent to massproduced apparel. produced Attractive in Attractive Appearance Appearance Less costly and lack Less importance of fine jewelry jewelry Mass production Mass methods are used in contrast to the handbook of fine jewelry. Large firms Bridge Jewelry Bridge Bridge jewelry forms a Bridge bridge – in price, material and style – between fine and costume jewelry costume Fills the public’s demand Fills for reasonable priced authentic jewelry authentic Ethnic Jewelry Ethnic Ethnic jewelry Ethnic includes pieces from all over the world – at all price points at Shells, stones, wood or fabric. Wearing religious or Wearing spiritual symbols in necklaces, earrings, rings or pins rings Growing number of Growing firms making licensed copies or reproductions of museum pieces of jewelry. Museums around the world from Moscow to the Vatican to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York are selling vast amounts of inexpensive reproductions Watches • The first modern wristwatch was introduced by Cartier in 1904 • Three basic types exist: Mechanical, driven by a balance wheel, powered by a spring Mechanical, and requiring hand winding and Self winding, watches that wind themselves as the wearer Self moves a wrist moves Quartz, invented in the ’70s, offers very accurate inexpensive Quartz, battery driven timekeeping battery • Watches are both fashion statements and useful devices Organization & Operation Organization Small industry Imports from Europe, South America, Far Imports East East Brand names and designer labels Licensed out: Anne Klein, Donna Karen, Ralph Licensed Lauren, Marc Jacobs Lauren, Judith Leiber Not only made of leather to be considered Not high quality high Merchandising & Marketing Merchandising Advertising through brand name and Advertising designer designer Manufacturers too small Trend savvy Trend Window/ store displays Magazine advertisements Catalogs Internet Industry Trends Industry Severe competition with foreign imports American designers American National Fashion Accessories National Association (NFAA) Association Promote domestic handbag industry Promote domestically and abroad domestically Fashion Accessories Shippers Association Fashion (FASA) (FASA) Support interests of importers as well as Support manufacturers of handbags and related goods manufacturers Trends Trends Accessory manufacturers always move in the fast lane Adapting or changing a style Adapting in mid-season may be required to stay on top of current trends current In recent years, the business In boomed boomed Like many other fashion Like categories, it has been given a boost by its association with designer names names Big, elaborate necklaces make a comeback as top accessories looks on the Lanvin fall 2008 runway Market Weeks & Trade Shows Market Must move in faster lane than anyone else 5 fashion weeks in NY Summer, January Transitional, March Fall, May Holiday, August Spring, November Femme Show, NY, January, May, September Largest trade show Fashion Jewelry World Expo & Providence Expo Providence Paris Premiere Class (March, October) ...
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