# Waves_1 - EOSC 114 Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes Volcanoes...

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EOSC 114 / Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes Volcanoes Landslides Storms Waves Impacts Waves Lecture 1 - How do waves work ? Lecture 2 - Waves on shorelines Lecture 3 Lecture 4 - Monster waves Lecture 5 - The future…

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Outline 1 / Waves basics 2 / Classification Learning Goals 1) Identify key properties of waves 2) Use these properties to determine wave speed and behavior in either shallow or deep water 3) Explain how waves move matter and energy 4) Describe the forces that generate waves, eliminate waves, and return the ocean to a flat surface 5) Explain the factors that determine the roughness of the sea
Wave Anatomy: Shape Crest = highest point Trough = lowest point Wavelength (L or ! ) = distance for one full cycle (e.g. crest-to- crest, or trough-to-trough) Crest Trough wavelength wavelength Distance Figure 7.1 Wave Anatomy: Shape Wave Height (H) = vertical distance from crest to trough Amplitude (a) = H/2 (one-half the height) Steepness = H/L (height divided by wavelength) wavelength S t e p n s = l o f h i height amplitude Distance What units are used to describe wavelength? Amplitude? Height? Steepness? Figure 7.1

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Period, (T) = time for one wavelength to pass a point (e.g. seconds per cycle) Frequency (f) = number of waves per time (e.g. cycles per second) Celerity (c) = L/T (distance per time, e.g. meters per second). Often just called SPEED. Wave Anatomy: Motion Distance OR Time! A. Period = Frequency B. Period = Frequency/Wavelength C. Period = 1/Frequency D. Period = 1/Wavelength E. Period = 1/celerity How are wave period and frequency related?
Waves require: A Medium (e.g. the rope) A generating force (e.g. the hand) The generated waves carry ENERGY through the medium A Demonstration: Waves in a rope A. The wave shifts the whole rope sideways B. The wave shifts the whole rope upwards C. The wave travels sideways, but the rope oscillates up and down D. The wave travels upwards, but the rope oscillates side to side Which of the following best describes the effect of the wave on the rope?

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## This note was uploaded on 04/01/2010 for the course EOSC 114 EOSC 114 taught by Professor Stull during the Spring '10 term at UBC.

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Waves_1 - EOSC 114 Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes Volcanoes...

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