Waves_2 - EOSC 114 / Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes...

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1 EOSC 114 / Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes Volcanoes Landslides Storms Waves Impacts Recap Last session we examined: - The key properties of waves - The disturbing and restoring forces - Sea state
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2 Waves Lecture 1 - How do waves work ? Lecture 2 - Waves on shorelines Lecture 3 - Resonance & Interference Lecture 4 - Monster waves Lecture 5 - The future… Outline 1 / Breaking waves & coastal effects 2 / Artificial barriers
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3 Learning Goals By the end of this class, you will be able to: 1) Determine when a wave will break 2) Explain differences between plunging and spilling breakers 3) Predict the type of breaker that will be found on a given beach 4) Describe how coastlines affect waves, and how waves affect coastlines 5) Compare the effects of breakers, groins, seawalls, and other structures on coastal erosion Waves Break when: 1) Steepness (H/L) >= 1 / 7 Wave is too high for it’s wavelength – becomes unstable & collapses 2) Height/Depth ! 3 / 4 Base of wave is restricted by ocean floor, crest is not – crest collapses forward Breaking Waves = Release of Energy…
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4 Becomes ‘Surf Energy’: - Turbulent mass of agitated water rushing onshore - Energy lost as: 1) Heat (mixed back into ocean water) 2) Motion of rocks, sediments - Some reflected back to sea
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Waves_2 - EOSC 114 / Guillaume Carazzo Earthquakes...

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