HUEC 2040-CH. 16 OUTLINE

HUEC 2040-CH. 16 OUTLINE - CHAPTER 16WOVEN FABRICS BASIC...

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CHAPTER 16-WOVEN FABRICS BASIC WEAVING CONCEPTS & TECHNOLOGY - Woven fabrics constructed by interlacing lengthwise yarns & crosswise yarns @ right angles - Warp yarns or ends: lengthwise direction yarns - Filling yarns, weft yarns, or picks: crosswise direction yarns - Fabric Grain o True grain  or grain perfect—when this relationship is perfect Off - grain : result of stresses/strains imposed during weaving or finishing, yarns may not lie in  proper position Warp yarns usually straight from lengthwise tension Filling usually responsible for distortion o Skewed : straight line distortion o Bowed : curved line distortion Extent to which fabric on true grain is indicator of quality o Bias : diagonal line direction; stretches more in bias vs. warp or filling direction - Fabric Count o Fabric count  or  thread count in one inch or centimeter of filling o Balanced weave: number of yarns in warp similar to number of yarns in filling Expressed in numerical form Ex: 80 x 64 80 warp, 64 filling Perfectly balanced (equal): count may be stated as 80 square  80 yarns/in. in warp, 80 yarns/in.  in filling o Linen   tester  (or  pick   glass ): calibrated square magnifying glass; used to measure fabric count Glass marked off in fractions of an in. or cm. Number of warp & filling beside calibrations viewed in magnified form w/glass & counted
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o Unbalanced weaves: larger number usually found in warp direction Usually exhibit rib effects created when numerous finer warps cross over coarser fillings Costs increase as number of picks(filling)/in. increases o Counts taken in  greige  (unfinished) goods count provided may NOT be exactly accurate - Selvages o Selvages : side edges of woven fabrics loose yarn ends to fray/unravel Shuttleless looms—separate lengths of filling inserted; results in fringed selvages (necessary to  reinforce this edge) Methods of reinforcement 1) providing for tucking of yarns @ open edge (more durable) 2) use of leno selvage—self selvage in which 2 warps @ edges of fabric twist around each  filling THE LOOM - Loom includes # of basic parts: - 1) mechanism for holding warps under tension o Warp yarns wound tightly onto large roll—warp beam—finished fabric on other side of loom wound  up on cloth beam appropriate tension applied between the two - 2) method for manipulating warps so fillings can be inserted
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HUEC 2040-CH. 16 OUTLINE - CHAPTER 16WOVEN FABRICS BASIC...

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