ch18_2302 - The Work of Waves and Wind The Work of Waves...

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The Work of Waves and Wind The Work of Waves Tidal Currents Types of Coastlines Wind Action Sand Dunes Loess
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The Work of Waves waves have crests and troughs wave height is the vertical distance between trough and crest wave length is the horizontal distance from trough to trough, or from crest to crest the wave period is the time in seconds between successive crests or successive troughs that pass a fixed point Figure 18.1, p. 599
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The Work of Waves wind-generated ocean waves are an example of oscillatory waves (a tiny particle completes one wave orbit , with the passage of each wave length as each crest passes, particles move forward on the wave crest, downward as the crest passes, backward in the wave trough, and upward as the next crest approaches Figure 18.2, p. 599
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The Work of Waves Shoaling waves – As waves approach the shore, wave length decreases and height increases until the wave becomes unstable and breaks. Figure 18.3, p. 600
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The Work of Waves wave height is related to wind speed , duration , and fetch high winds over long distances and long durations can create very large waves as waves approach the shore, wave length decreases and height increases until the wave becomes unstable and breaks Figure 18.4, p. 600
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The Work of Waves wave action is the most important agent in shaping shoreline landforms waves attack weak materials to make marine scarps and resistant materials to make marine cliffs Figure 18.6, p. 601
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The Work of Waves CABO SAN LUCAS - GRANITE WITH A THIN QUATERNARY COVERING OF ALLUVIUM WITH LARGE GRANITIC BOLDERS.
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The Work of Waves marine cliff : the wave-cut notch , marks the line of most intense wave erosion the waves find points of weakness in the bedrock and penetrate deeply to form crevices and sea caves Figure 18.6, p. 601
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The Work of Waves the waves find points of weakness in the bedrock and penetrate deeply to form crevices and sea caves This sea cave on Sullivan Bay, Bartolomew Island Galapagos
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The Work of Waves where a more resistant rock mass projects seaward, it may be cut through to form a sea arch after an arch collapses, a rock column, known as a stack , (eventually, the stack is toppled by wave action and is leveled) Figure 18.6, p. 601
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The Work of Waves where a more resistant rock mass projects seaward, it may be cut through to form a sea arch
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ch18_2302 - The Work of Waves and Wind The Work of Waves...

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