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20_beaches

# 20_beaches - iclicker question If our wave height was 7 m...

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iclicker question: If our wave height was 7 m high, what wave length would cause the wave to break (H/L >1/7) if our wave height remained constant. Be prepared to defend your answer. A. > 0.14 m B. < 7 m C.< 49 m Sample Essay Question: Describe the changes that take place to a wave as it approaches the shoreline? Include both the reasons why a wave breaks and wave refraction.

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How do waves control what a beach looks likes? Wave interactions with the beach Refraction Longshore current Longshore drift (sediment transport) Beach profile Summer Beaches Winter beaches Beach River of Sand Movie Classic
A. A wave with a 200m wave length is a deep water wave in waters deeper than ________. B. A wave with a 200m wave length becomes a shallow water wave in waters shallower than ________.

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Deep water wave D > L/2 Wave breaks as H/L> 1/7

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As a wave approaches shallow water, the wave energy reaches the sea floor and due to friction the wave speed increases . The wave period stays the same , and as a result the wave
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• Fall '10
• IngridHendy
• Coast, Coastal geography, Longshore drift, Beach River of Sand

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