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16 Grading - Grading Process of increasing or decreasing...

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Grading Process of increasing or decreasing dimensions of a pattern @ specific points according to grade rules of proportional change. Production Patterns •Accurate, final patterns that meet all fit, quality & prodn standards •Made from 1st patterns •Dev’d only for adopted styles •Must be v. accurate •Misses size 8 •Plus size women’s 20 or 18/20 •Seam allowances included Size depends on: •Fabric •Where located •Seam type •Assembly methods •Firm’s standards- more fabric they chose to put into garment probably higher quality garment Pattern Grading •Patterns graded up/down depending on number sizes req’d •Increases/decreases must be v. accurate •CAD Advantages: –Saves time –Increases accuracy –View of nested (all sizes together) pattern to check accuracy •Grade rules: (part of the companies standards) –Exact amounts that patterns are changed at grade points: •Grade points: –The point on the pattern that is changed. –Vary according to style and size Markers •Graded patterns used to create markers •Making a marker: shifting pattern pieces until they are as close together as possible Marker Efficiency 1.Fabric Characteristics: •Differences between front & back •Lengthwise symmetry •Crosswise symmetry •Matching design, stripe, plaid •Length of design repeat •Fabric width •Nap: pile or uneven plaid 2.
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