geog 11313 test 3

geog 11313 test 3 - COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS *...

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*** Coastal Components: * coast : in general, the strip of land and water where various processes create characteristic landscapes * shore: the narrower belt of land bordering the water; most seaward portion of a coast * shoreline : the actual contact border between land and water * littoral zone : from the highest water line to a point where the water is about 200 ft deep * beach : coastal zone of sediment shaped by wave action *** Agents : the factors that work on these components; the action of ocean movements: ** Waves: undulations of water produced by wind energy being transferred to water (wave) energy * size determined by wind velocity (stronger the wind, the bigger the wave), direction, fetch (distance over which the wind blows) *key to know these* * wave components: 1) height : vertical distance between the crest & the trough 2) length : horizontal distance from one crest to the next 3) period : time interval between 2 successive crests passing a fixed point * swells : series of open ocean waves , height=1/2 length * wave of translation : when the swell begins to be affected by the ocean bottom * breaker : a wave whose height, increased by moving into shallower water, exceeds vertical stability and falls forward or “breaks over” * 4 types are recognized: spilling, plunging, surging, collapsing * surf : a series of breaking waves * swash : the thin sheet of water that slides up the beach after a wave breaks * backwash : the water from the swash that flows back toward the ocean ** Wave Refraction : wave bending; caused by the irregular shape of the shore compared to the incoming wave.
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** Currents: Longshore currents : generated by refracted waves; moves parallel to the coast, helping to move sand * creates longshore drift or beach drift ; the transport of sand along the beach Rip current : narrow, stream-like flows of water moving perpendicular
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geog 11313 test 3 - COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS *...

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