g8 - The Work of Waves and Wind Objectives: Explain the...

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The Work of Waves and Wind Objectives: Explain the characteristics of ocean waves and tides Present coastline features of erosion, transport and deposition Examine the processes of wind erosion and deposition Differentiate different types of dune Describe the wind deposit LOESS
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wave length wave height crest trough particles in waves follow a circular pattern COASTAL LANDFORMS
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At the shoreline Water becomes shallow, wave height increases because wave length decreases Waves become steeper, then collapse (breakers)
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Surf - sequence of breaking waves Swash - water sliding up beach Backwash - water flowing back down beach to sea
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Wave refraction Close to coast, water gets more shallow Waves are slowed down If waves arrive at an angle, one part is slower than the rest Causes waves to bend = wave refraction
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Wave refraction Bay Headland
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Waves arriving at bays are slow (deposition) At headlands, faster (erosion)
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A sequence of features is produced as headlands are degraded Sea cliffs Waves erode base -undercutting the cliff retreats
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Also produces sea caves As cliffs retreat produces a wave- cut platform
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Headlands may be eroded back leaving a remnant (stack ) stack
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Longshore drift Waves arrive at a coast at an angle (swash) Backwash returns at 90 degrees Sand is moved along the beach = longshore drift or longshore current
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g8 - The Work of Waves and Wind Objectives: Explain the...

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