ppt10 part1

ppt10 part1 - The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes...

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The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Chapter 10 Prof. Weatherly
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Terminology of the coastal region
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Consider first the “beach” ●Beach: bottom worked by breaking waves (including storm waves). Goes from breaker zone up to the coastline (determined by storm waves). The beach is divided into: ◦Shore: exposed beach (low tide shore line to coastline) And ◦Nearshore: unexposed beach (seaward of low tide shore line)
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Beach terminology continued The shore in turn is divided into: ◦Backshore (where you put your beach blanket at high tide). It’s from high tide shoreline to coastline. ◦Foreshore is shore from high tide shoreline to low tide shoreline.
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Landform (bottom) terminology Berm: bottom of the backshore beach Beach face: bottom of the foreshore beach (wet & joggers like to run there) Wave cut bench: bottom of nearshore beach from low tide shoreline to longshore trough (see figure) Longshore trough: (see figure) Longshore trough: (see figure)
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How sand moves on beach First perpendicular motion to the beach Swash brings sand up the beach Backswash takes sand down the beach There are seasonal effects: ◦ swash tends to dominate in summertime ◦ backswash tends to dominate in wintertime
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Summertime beach Low, long waves Berm builds up at expense longshore bar Relatively steep beach face
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Wintertime beach Short, high waves erode berm and deposit sand on longshore bar Berm is narrower Beachface is less steep
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Longshore movement by swash and backswash Recall that waves are
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This note was uploaded on 02/27/2011 for the course OCE 1001 taught by Professor Staff during the Fall '08 term at FSU.

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ppt10 part1 - The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes...

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