L10_Coastal_Processes_web

L10_Coastal_Processes_web - movement waves of transition In...

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3/13/09 1 Oceans, Coastal Processes and Landforms Coastal System Components & Actions Waves Tides Coastal System Outputs & Landforms Littoral zone coast, beach, shoreline, nearshore Mean Sea Level Coastal System Components Global System Actions Tides – complex daily oscillations in sea level Tides caused by gravitational pull of moon and sun Spring & Neap Tides Earth Moon Lunar Tide Bulge
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3/13/09 2 Sun Earth Solar Tide Bulge Spring Tide Spring Tide Neap Tide Neap Tide Tidal Currents ocean tides influence marine coastlines changing tides tidal currents – ebb current – flood current Functions: • keep inlets open by scouring • accumulates sediments in bays & fills them in may eventually form salt marshes Waves Friction between moving air (wind) and water generates waves Wave energy moving across water – not water
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Unformatted text preview: movement waves of transition In a breaker, transition gives way to translation and energy and water move toward shore 3/13/09 3 Waves Wave action is the most important agent shaping shoreline landforms churning erodes shoreline materials moves shoreline landward Littoral Drift Littoral Drift is made up of. .. Beach Drift Longshore Drift Some coasts experience a long term trend of either accumulation and erosion: Progradation - building out of shore (accumulation) Retrogradation - cutting back of a shore (erosion) 3/13/09 4 Marine Scarp Sea Cliff rock fragments carried by waves abrade cliff --> notches, caves, arches, stacks Shore Platforms Erosional Coastal Landforms Barrier spit/Bay barrier Tombolo Beach Depositional Coastal Environments...
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This note was uploaded on 04/02/2011 for the course GEOG 102 taught by Professor Dr.merrinmacrae during the Winter '10 term at Waterloo.

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L10_Coastal_Processes_web - movement waves of transition In...

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