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Unformatted text preview: Anthropology 101 Lecture 28 Winter 2008 03.26.08 India Cabaret, Gender, Nepal, The Moral Heres an opening from from my Nepal Fieldnotes written 3 April 2005: Light and dark, heat and cool. So much is different and so much the same. At night in Thamel, the jillimilli streets glitter in neon. There is a Gap store, a North Face store and high bold billboards advertising whiskey and cigarettes and motorcycles. I go to Himalayan Java for strong black coffee like I can get in Ann Arbor. Just below, women from the Terai work the crowd, either selling trinkets or begging. Cripples are set out on the curbs every morning to attract the coins of passers-by into their bowls. Street children, their hair wild like spent summer dandelions and their clothes ragged and smeared, press up against the windows of cars stopped in traffic. Sometimes I see them sitting against a wall, inhaling from paper bags -- kerosene maybe, or meth. My friend Al Pach and I walked back to the Thamel corner after a late dinner one night. It was the time when the clubs began to close -- about 11:00, earlier now because of the emergency and the fear of police. The street, empty an hour earlier was jammed with taxis and rickshaws. A platoon of soldiers gets out of a truck and shambles by with their guns held low. Young girls dressed in jeans and tight t-shirts poured from the second story clubs lining the edges of Thamel. They walked in pairs, laughing and joking, by the clumps of young Nepali men, sometimes stopping to talk with them. Most of the girls were prostitutes, of a fancier sort than you find in the poor mans brothels of Sorakhutte where the Tamang girls used to work. We overhear the banter. A thousand rupees and well drink beer together through the night. A thousand? No, thats nothing. It costs me a thousand just to sleep. Make it two thousand. Fifteen hundred for the whole night. We are the only foreigners on the street. Times are hard and tourism down. We attract attention and some of the girls We are the only foreigners on the street....
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- Winter '08