Coastal processes_1

Coastal processes_1 - Coastal Processes and Coastal Erosion...

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Coastal Processes and Coastal Erosion
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Coastal Virginia Increasing demand for waterfront property has caused increased: “stabilization” of coasts drainage of wetlands
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Coastal wetlands are important for biodiversity and water quality
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Beach Processes Wave energy is expended at the shoreline
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Wave Motion in Deep Water Waves created by wind at water surface Wave form moves forward Actual motion of water in a wave (in deep water) is circular (orbital) path In deep water the wave height is determined by: Wind speed Duration Fetch (distance over which wind blows)
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As wave forms enter shallow water: Waves “feel bottom” (at depth equal to ½ wavelength) Circular motion of water becomes elliptical; at the bottom, the motion is “back-forth” Wavelength and velocity decrease; wave height increases Wave breaks when velocity at crest exceeds that of water below
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Beach Profile and Nearshore Features
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Wave refraction Deeper Shallow Waves travel faster in deep water Slower in shallow water Longshore current
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Wave refraction focuses erosion on headland points Great Lakes
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This note was uploaded on 05/13/2011 for the course GEO 101 taught by Professor Hanson during the Spring '08 term at SUNY Stony Brook.

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Coastal processes_1 - Coastal Processes and Coastal Erosion...

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