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Unformatted text preview: -ocean waves-motion greatest at surface, less so the deeper you get-rogue wave-when many waves of different amplitude and wavelength combine constructively-why a wave breaks: waves change when they enter water shallower than half their wavelength (friction on sea floor interferes w/ orbital motion of water particles), thus waves slow down; as waves slow, wavelengths decrease, water/ energy concentrated into shorter length, waves grow higher-when wave height-to-wavelength ratio = 1.7 the wave breaks; water depth beneath breaker is 1.3 wave height; water velocity in wave crest is greater than wave velocity, so wave crest outraces bottom and falls forward-global rise in sea level:-global rise in sea level avg. 1 ft. per century-can move beaches inland by 1000 ft. in low lying areas-coastal resident response: build sea wall, feedback mechanisms of something-coastline: hit hard by hurricane waves, also damaged by other kinds of waves, sandy coast is natural defense system against wave attack, more and more people living near coast, almost entire US coastline...
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This note was uploaded on 05/13/2011 for the course GEOL 105 taught by Professor Lees during the Fall '08 term at UNC.
- Fall '08