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Geol. 105 Notes 7

Geol. 105 Notes 7 - -ocean waves-motion greatest at surface...

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-ocean waves -motion greatest at surface, less so the deeper you get -rogue wave-when many waves of different amplitude and wavelength combine constructively -why a wave breaks: waves change when they enter water shallower than half their wavelength (friction on sea floor interferes w/ orbital motion of water particles), thus waves slow down; as waves slow, wavelengths decrease, water/ energy concentrated into shorter length, waves grow higher -when wave height-to-wavelength ratio = 1.7 the wave breaks; water depth beneath breaker is 1.3 wave height; water velocity in wave crest is greater than wave velocity, so wave crest outraces bottom and falls forward -global rise in sea level: -global rise in sea level avg. 1 ft. per century -can move beaches inland by 1000 ft. in low lying areas -coastal resident response: build sea wall, feedback mechanisms of something -coastline: hit hard by hurricane waves, also damaged by other kinds of waves, sandy coast is natural
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