Unformatted text preview: Waves: • Are generated by wind • Erode shorelines • Move sediment Bays : bodies of water sheltered from strong wave action Estuary : where a river empties into a bay Shoreline: shifting line of contact between water and land Coastline: zone in which coastal processes operate or have a strong influence The Work of Waves • Waves do not lose much energy as they travel across the deep ocean. • When a wave reaches the beach, the drag of the bottom slows and steepens it • The wave leans forward, and eventually breaks, creating a breaker • This powerful “swash” moves sand and gravel on the beach landward. • The return flow or “backwash” pours down the beach creating an undercurrent (undertow). This force can carry a person seaward beneath the next oncoming breaker • The backwash carries sand and gravel seaward, completing the wave cycle....
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- Spring '10