COASTAL PROCESSES - COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS *...

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COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS * Coastal Components: Coast : the broad area or strip of land and water where various processes create characteristic coastal landscape Shore: a narrower belt or subsection of the coast Shoreline : the actual contact border between land and water Littoral zone : from the highest water line to a point where the water is about 200 ft deep Beach : coastal zone of sediment shaped by wave action *** Agents: Waves : undulations of water produced by wind energy being transferred to the water * wave size determined by wind velocity, direction, duration, and fetch (distance over which the wind blows) * wave components: height: vertical distance length: horizontal distance from one crest to the next
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period: time interval between 2 successive crests passing a fixed point Swells: series of open ocean waves Wave of translation: when the swell begins to be affected by the ocean bottom Breaker: a wave whose height exceeds vertical stability & falls forward or “breaks over” Surf: a series of breaking waves Swash: the thin sheet of water that slides up the beach after a wave breaks
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COASTAL PROCESSES - COASTAL PROCESSES & LANDFORMS *...

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