Chapter6 - Chapter 6 Waves Coastal Geomorphology Coastal...

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1 Coastal Geomorphology & Coastal Dynamics Spring 2007 Field Trip Schedule Montauk Saturday March 31th Sunday April 15th Saturday April 28th Chapter 6: Waves Chapter 6: Waves Wave properties, propagation, particle motion Types of Waves Distribution & Transfer of Energy Tsunamis, Standing Waves Wave Generated Currents Coastal Engineering Manual: Coastal Hydrodynamics (Part II ) Water Wave Mechanics ( Part 2 - Chapter 1 ) Meteorology and Wave Climate ( Part 2 - Chapter 2 ) Estimation of Nearshore Waves ( Part 2 - Chapter 3 ) Surf Zone Hydrodynamics ( Part 2 - Chapter 4 ) Hydrodynamics of Tidal Inlets ( Part 2 - Chapter 6 ) Wave Generation and Propagation Nearshore Transformation and Breaking Wave Form Properties Linear Wave Equation Height and Amplitude Wave Number Radian Frequency Period Classification
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2 Wave Data: is often reported or presented as a spectrum . Wave energy is a proxy for wave height Wave Nomenclature Wave Field are usually described by three variables: H: height sometimes reported as Hsig or Hrms Hsig = average of 1/3 largest waves recoded or observed Hrms = square root (of the average of the sum ((of all the waves recorded or observed )squared) T: period α : angle, either geographic angle with respect to north or incident wave angle with respect to shore normal. Similar to wind the
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