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chapt10gh - Capillary Waves Wind Waves Anatomy of a Wave...

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1 Chapter 10 Waves Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Tsunamis, Internal waves big waves small waves huge waves rogue waves Wave direction Wave wave energy – NOT the water particles – moves across the surface of the sea wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted Fig. 10-2, p. 266 Direction of wave motion A B Wavelength Height Still water level Crest Trough Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B more like a real wave more like a sine wave Anatomy of a Wave Parts of a Wave * Wavelength * height * Crest * trough * amplitude * Frequency - # of waves passing a fixed point in a given length of time * Period - time for successive crests or troughs (1 wavelength) to pass a fixed point Direction of wave motion Wave-length Still water level Crest Trough Crest 1/2 wave- length depth
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