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Unformatted text preview: the remains of marine organisms (shells, etc,) When waves move from the open water toward the beach, the near shore end slows down by friction with the bottom ****The wave crest refracts (bends) toward the beach.-Refraction causes wave crests to become parallel to the shore. Wave refraction causes more intense wave action (erosion) on headlands and less intense waves (and depositions) in bays.-Headland erosion produces sea cliffs and stacks (remains of headland standing in the ocean). Longshore drift occurs when waves hit the shore at a slight angle and push sand grains along by a zigzag swash and backwash motion.-Longshore drift moves sand along the beach-Migrating sand trapped by a grain Longshore drift moves sand from north to south along the Atlantic coast-New sand is added to the system by rivers.-Sand is lost when it moves into deep water off the Gulf of Mexico. Migrating sand often forms barrier islands-Barrier islands are sand bars that lie parallel to the coast....
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This note was uploaded on 08/09/2011 for the course GEOS 1004 taught by Professor Aksinha during the Fall '08 term at Virginia Tech.
- Fall '08