22 - Ocean/Atmosphere 19:05

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Ocean/Atmosphere 19:05 Offshore is the open water and will always be submerged and covered by water Cross Shore Transport : Cross shore transport occurs as waves deposit sediments on to beach face or  carry them away. Low energy waves, common in summer, tend to pile up  sand on a beach. High energy waves, common in winter, remove sediments  from the beach face The result of cross-shore transport is a change in the beach profile, a cross  section view of the shape of a beach from the seaward edge of the foreshore  to the landward edge of the backshore Because waves are continuous, sediments are always in motion. The beach  profile changes significantly from season to season Longshore Transport : When waves strike the beach at an angle, they generate a current that flows  parallel to the shore, called the longshore current. Combined with the  suspension of sediments due to wave action, this current moves sediments  down the beach, along the coastline The longshore current is caused by waves breaking at an angle relative to the 
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This note was uploaded on 08/26/2011 for the course GEOGRAPHY 3A taught by Professor Staff during the Spring '11 term at UCSB.

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22 - Ocean/Atmosphere 19:05

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