12 - OceanAtmosphere 19:08

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Ocean Atmosphere 19:08 The development of Wave theory: how are surface waves measured?: Polynesians from Mashall islands- Mattang Newton (1687) and Laplace (1775): motion of water particles Gerstner (1802): 1 st  wave theory describing circular motion of water particles E. Weber and W. Weber use of wave tanks to confirm Gerstner’s circular motions  Munk and Sverdrup: Development of surf forecasting Today: data from current meters, tide gauges, wave staffs, bottom pressure  sensors (altimeters and microwave scatterometers) feed wave models Bottom pressure sensors  are used to measure passages of tsunamis at sea. Can  resolve 1cm wave height variations in 6000m depth waters Changes in hydrostatic pressure occur with the passing of a wave and can be  used to detect surface waves using pressure sensors on the sea floor and  these pressure sensors can detect the passing of a tsunami. They are the first 
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12 - OceanAtmosphere 19:08

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