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Chapter 10

Chapter 10 - Intro to Oceanography Chapter 10 I How Are...

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Intro to Oceanography : Chapter 10 I. How Are Coastal Regions Defined? a. Shore – a zone that lies between the lowest tide level (low tide) and the highest elevation on land that is affected by storm waves b. Coast – extends inland from a shore as far as ocean-related features can be found c. Coastline – marks the boundary between the shore and the coast; the landward limit of the effect of the highest storm waves on the shore d. Beach Terminology i. Backshore – above the high tide shoreline and is covered with water only during storms ii. Foreshore – the portion exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide iii. Shoreline – migrates back and forth with the tide and is the water’s edge iv. Nearshore – extends seaward from the low tide shoreline to the low tide breaker line v. Offshore zone – beyond the low-tide breakers which is deep enough that waves rarely affect the bottom vi. Beach – a deposit of the shore area vii. Wave-cut bench – a flat, wave-eroded surface viii. Berm – the dry, gently sloping region at the foot of the coastal cliffs or dunes 1. Often composed to sand, making it a favorite place of beachgoers ix. Beach face – the wet, sloping surface that extends from the berm to the shoreline x. Longshore bars – sand bars in the offshore that parallel the coast 1. Causes waves to begin breaking xi. Longshore trough – separating the longshore bar from the beach face e. Beach Composition i. Beaches can be though of as material in transit along the shoreline II. How Does Sang Move on the Beach? a. Movement Perpendicular to Shoreline i. Mechanism 1. As each wave breaks, water rushes up the beach (swash) 2. Most water drains away from shore as backwash ii. Light vs. Heavy Wave Activity 1. Light wave activity – characterized by less energetic waves, much of the swash soaks into the beach, so backwash is reduced 2. Heavy wave activity – characterized by high-energy waves, the beach is saturated with water from previous waves, so very little of the swash soaks into the beach iii. Summertime and Wintertime Beaches
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1. Summertime beach – light wave activity produces a wide
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Chapter 10 - Intro to Oceanography Chapter 10 I How Are...

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