TheWinesOfItaly_book_1_

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The Wines of Italy AN ENDLESS ADVENTURE IN TASTE
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Te Wines of Italy A N E N D L E S S A D V E N T U R E I N T A S T E by Burton Anderson
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Published by: Te Italian ±rade Commission 33 East 67th Street - New York, NY 10065 © 2006 Italian ±rade Commission - 8th Edition
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Wines of Italy: soil, sunshine and soul 3 Italian wine through the ages 5 Wine laws & labels 9 A review of Italian wines 11 The South & Islands: Oenotria revisited 13 Sicily 15 Sardinia 19 Calabria 23 Basilicata 26 Apulia 28 Campania 33 Central Italy: Renaissance in the heartland 37 Latium 39 Molise 43 Abruzzi 45 Marches 47 Umbria 51 Tuscany 55 North by Northwest: from Adriatic to Mont Blanc 63 Emilia-Romagna 65 Liguria 71 Lombardy 75 Piedmont 78 Valle d’Aosta 85 The Northeast: taste of the future in the Venezie 89 Veneto 91 Friuli-Venezia Giulia 96 Trentino-Alto Adige 100 Italian food and wine 105 Glossary 113 Index of DOCG, DOC and IGT wines 114 The Wines of Italy AN ENDLESS ADVENTURE IN TASTE by Burton Anderson
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3 The Wines of Italy Wines of Italy: soil, sunshine and soul These days it’s often said that good wine can be made anywhere on earth that grapes grow. Vineyard and cellar techniques have become so sophisticated that quality is a constant on six conti- nents and there’s no longer any need to contend with a bad vintage or a mediocre wine. Progress has dealt a serious blow to Old World notions about the singular virtues of special plots of land – the mythical gifts of nature that distinguish one vineyard or ter- roir from the next. Technology seems to have taken the mystery out of making wine much as point ratings have taken the romance out of writing about it. And yet, in Italy, everywhere you go, you run into wine- makers who still seem to believe in the old-time values of soil, sunshine and soul. That’s not necessarily because they lack the know-how or equipment to fashion wines for the so-called international palate. Revolutionary advances have made Italy’s wine industry as up-to-the-minute as any of the New World. No, this resistance to global trends seems to reflect the pride and prejudice that lie behind the will to handcraft wines that are by nature unique. Of course, it’s normal enough to be unique in Italy with its unmatched multitudes of native vines and its intricate variations in topography and climate that com- bine with historical and cultural fac- tors to give each place its genius loci. That’s why, as you move up and down the country between the Alps and the Mediterranean is- lands, you can never be sure what sort of wine you’ll come across from one place to the next. You may taste reds from vines called Schioppettino in Friuli, Cagnina in Romagna, Cesanese in Latium or Monica in Sardinia or whites from Pigato in Liguria, Falanghina in Campania, Verdeca in Apulia or Inzolia in Sicily and wonder how their reputations managed to remain local. The reason, as often as not, is that their produc- ers had never thought in terms of a market beyond the near- est town. For even if Italy leads the world in exports, it has a wealth of esoteric wines waiting to be discovered.
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