handout_waves

handout_waves - Waves * The horizontal distance between...

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Waves * The horizontal distance between successive wave crests is the wave length (L) . The vertical distance between wave crest and trough is the wave height (H) . Wave period (T) is time required for one wave to pass a fixed point. Wave speed (C) is L/T. * For a deep-water wave (water depth, L D 2 1 ), wave speed increases with increasing T. For a shallow-water wave , the wave speed decreases as the water depth decreases ( D gD C 1 . 3 ). * Group speed of the wave : For a deep-water wave , it is half the speed of the individual wave s. For a shallow- water wave , it is the same as the speed of the individual waves . * Waves begin to break when wave steepness (H/L) exceeds 1/7 (or the wave crest forms an angle less than 120 degrees). Away from the beach, if waves are breaking, it indicates "shallow water!" * Even a gentle breeze immediately forms ripples or capillary wave s. The dominant restoring force for ripples is surface tension . For larger waves (i. e., L is longer), the restoring force is gravity . * The passage of deep-water waves causes water particles to move in circular orbits, with orbital diameters becoming
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This note was uploaded on 10/07/2011 for the course OCS 1005 taught by Professor Condrey during the Spring '08 term at LSU.

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handout_waves - Waves * The horizontal distance between...

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