L18 Beaches and Barrier Islands

L18 Beaches and Barrier Islands - Geol 107 L18 10/5/2011...

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Geol 107 L18 10/5/2011 1 The Coastline BARRIER ISLANDS BEACHES DELTAS CLIFFS The Coastline A dynamic balance between the sediment supply from the land and the ocean±s energy The Coastline 155 million people (53%) reside in U.S. coastal counties. 85 percent of U.S. tourism revenues are from coastal areas. The tourism industry is the nation±s largest employer and second largest contributor to GDP. 71 percent of annual U.S. disaster losses are the result of coastal storms. Beaches 33% of the N. American shoreline is beach 23% is beach Ͳ barrier island system e.g., Gulf and East Coast 10% is ²pocket beach³ type e.g., California Typical Beach Profile Breaker Zone Surf Zone Swash Zone WAVE REFRACTION
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Geol 107 L18 10/5/2011 2 Refraction on Point WAVE REFRACTION Wave Refraction and Long Shore Currents Waves rarely approach beaches head Ͳ on As the wave nearest the beach ±sees bottom² and starts to slow down, the wave crest line starts to bend or refract
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L18 Beaches and Barrier Islands - Geol 107 L18 10/5/2011...

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