Wave Erosion and Marine Geology

Wave Erosion and Marine Geology - Wave Erosion and Marine...

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Wave Erosion and Marine Geology
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Take-Away Points 1. Waves are created by the wind 2. Water in a wave oscillates but does not move with the wave 3. What happens when waves hit the shore 4. Storm surges can be catastrophic 5. How coastlines evolve 6. Deltas are influenced by deposition, tides, and wave action 7. Reefs are important coastlines in tropical regions 8. Submarine landslides
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Wave Motions Particles in a wave travel circular paths The water in a deep-water wave does not move forward Below wave base, wave effects are negligible 1. Waves are created by the wind
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Wave Motions 2. Water in a wave oscillates but does not move with the wave
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The Highest Recorded Ocean Wave 2. Water in a wave oscillates but does not move with the wave
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Freak Waves Addition of waves of different frequencies Theoretically could reach 200 feet in Gulf of Alaska One nearly sank the Queen Mary in WWII, with 15,000 troops aboard.
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When Waves Meet the Shore When the bottom interferes with wave motion, the wave steepens and the top overtakes the bottom. 3. What happens when waves hit the shore
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Wave Refraction Waves change path when they reach shallow water Wave energy is concentrated on headlands and spread out in bays 3. What happens when waves hit the shore
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Rips When waves break parallel to a beach, rips occur 3. What happens when waves hit the shore
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Storm Waves: Galveston, Texas, September 8, 1900: 6000-8000 dead 3600 houses destroyed 4. Storm surges can be catastrophic
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Raising Galveston – 6 in. to 17 ft.
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A rickety maze such as Dr. Seuss might have drawn
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The Lift in Progress
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Pumping in the Sand 4. Storm surges can be catastrophic
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The Galveston Seawall 4. Storm surges can be catastrophic
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Wave Erosion and Marine Geology - Wave Erosion and Marine...

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