Coastal Geomorpholog2

Coastal - Coastal Geomorphology Controls on wave erosion 1 sea floor geometry o o o determines where waves break relative to the shore profile

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Coastal Geomorphology Controls on wave erosion 1. sea floor geometry o determines where waves break relative to the shore o profile geometry maximum waver erosion occurs where the sea floor profile causes waves to gain height in the foreshore and break at the shoreline if the sea floor slopes gradually surf will occur seaward of the shoreline if the sea floor slopes steeply, surf may not form and the swell will contact the headlands o planimetric geometry: wave refraction waves conform to the sea bottom topography, that is, decelerate first opposite the headlands and bend around them into the bays wave energy is concentrated on headlands and diverges in the bays wave refraction also generates a longshore drift of water and sediment from the breaking waves at the headlands to the lower water in the adjacent bays erosion on headlands and deposition in bays causes coastlines to become less irregular over geologic time 2. storm surges o water levels rise by 1 cm for every 1 mb drop in atmospheric pressure
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This note was uploaded on 12/15/2011 for the course GLY GLY100 taught by Professor Jaymuza during the Fall '10 term at Broward College.

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Coastal - Coastal Geomorphology Controls on wave erosion 1 sea floor geometry o o o determines where waves break relative to the shore profile

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