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Coastal Geomorpholog3

Coastal Geomorpholog3 - • the kinetic energy(KE = mv 2/2...

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Coastal Geomorphology Shorezone high-energy geomorphic system where wave energy is dissapated a landscape of small height and width but circumscribes the continents accounts for less than 10% of the earth's land surface but about 2/3 of the population Swell waves in the offshore represent the transmission of energy but not mass, i.e. the ocean surface swells as the crests of waves pass by created as wind shear stress is applied to the ocean surface wave size (height and wave length) is a function of o wind velocity o duration of wind from a constant direction o fetch: the length of water over which the wind is passing therefore the large, long duration storms produce the largest waves, typically 15 m in height , but up to 34 m low rounded symmetrical waves move 1000s km with little energy loss, as the potential energy (PE = mgh) is transmitted with the wave form
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Unformatted text preview: • the kinetic energy (KE = mv 2 /2) is the circular orbit of the water molecules Surf • breaking waves in the shorezone (foreshore) • as waves drag on the sea floor in the foreshore, the waves decelerate becoming asymmetric (circular orbit becomes elliptical), shorter and higher ( i.e. increasing PE); waves become higher and steeper until they are unstable and break to form surf Wave erosion and sediment transport Erosional proceses hydraulic action force of waves and trapped air rock is plucked from headlands attrition reduction of particle size as clasts bounce in the surf abrasion (corrasion) erosion as clasts as cast against headlands Longshore drift • movement of nearshore sediment parallel to the shore • a typical drift 80-100 cm/sec can transport more than 1000 m 3 of sand/day...
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Coastal Geomorpholog3 - • the kinetic energy(KE = mv 2/2...

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