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Unformatted text preview: the kinetic energy (KE = mv 2 /2) is the circular orbit of the water molecules Surf breaking waves in the shorezone (foreshore) as waves drag on the sea floor in the foreshore, the waves decelerate becoming asymmetric (circular orbit becomes elliptical), shorter and higher ( i.e. increasing PE); waves become higher and steeper until they are unstable and break to form surf Wave erosion and sediment transport Erosional proceses hydraulic action force of waves and trapped air rock is plucked from headlands attrition reduction of particle size as clasts bounce in the surf abrasion (corrasion) erosion as clasts as cast against headlands Longshore drift movement of nearshore sediment parallel to the shore a typical drift 80-100 cm/sec can transport more than 1000 m 3 of sand/day...
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