Ch_14_Bustle_90s_Women

Ch_14_Bustle_90s_Women - HUEC4072:HISTORYOFDRESS...

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HUEC 4072:  HISTORY OF DRESS AND ADORNMENT AFTER 1700 CHAPTER 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties Women Dr. Jenna T. Kuttruff School of Human Ecology Louisiana State University
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  From 1870 to 1890 was named after the bustle, the predominant feature of women’s dresses. The Bustle Period Tortora 2006
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The new element was the bustle, a structure  to support a skirt with a full back. 1869 -1875 1873  1876  1886  Tortora 2006 1 st Bustle Period 3rd Bustle Period
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Bustle Period Women: 1870-1890 Bustles Folding Spiral Braided wire Tortora 1998, p 330
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In the twenty years that bustles were in fashion,  three different shapes of bustles were worn. Tortora 2006
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1873 1876 The earliest bustles, c. 1870-1878, created by  manipulating the full skirt in a waterfall-like  effect, often with a train.
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The second bustle type, with a sheath or cuirass bodice, c. 1878-1883, dropped fullness to below the back of the knees. Ladies’ Fashions, 1881 http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1881petersons.jpg
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The final bustle type, c. 1883 – 1890, was  rigid and shelf-like and rarely had a train. Tortora 2006
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Three Different Bustle Silhouettes (1870 – 1890) 1 st 1870-1878 2 nd 1878-1884 3 rd 1884-1890 Gibbs-Smith,1960 pp 10 & 11
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First Bustle Period – 1870 - 1878 Earliest bustles Created by manipulating the full skirt in a waterfall-like effect Often with a train
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First Bustle Period (1870-1878) Ladies’ Fashions, 1873 (Seated woman is wearing a Tea Gown
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First Bustle Period (1870-1878)
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Ladies Fashions, 1870. http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/wo men/fashionplates/c1870lamode.jpg “Fashion Repeating Itself.” Illustration from 1872. http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates /1872fashrepeat.jpg First Bustle Period (1870-1878)
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Ladies’ Fashions, 1874. Lady at far left wearing Tea-gown. http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1874godey2.jpg Ladies’ Fashions 1874 showing longer Basque. http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashio nplates/1870sleslies5.gif First Bustle Period (1870-1878)
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First Bustle Period (1870-1878) Tortora 2006
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Left, Charles Frederick Work Reception Dress c. 1874 Label: WORTH 7, RUE DE LA PAIX, PARIS Purple silk faille set of bodice and skirt; silk lace and velvet bows at neck and cuffs; apron-shaped overskirt with fringe at front; skirt with three alternating flounces of fabric and velvet. Pg 244 Koyoto Costume Institute First Bustle Period  (1870-1878)
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N. Rodrigues Reception Dress 1875-1879 Label: N. RODRIGUES Paris
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Ch_14_Bustle_90s_Women - HUEC4072:HISTORYOFDRESS...

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