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COSTUME STUDY TERMS FOR HUEC 4072 - Exam 4 You should know the definitions/descriptions for the following terms and/or be able to recognize them visually. Note: * indicates term discussed but not specified in text, will be presented in class lectures. Chapter 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920-1947 Acetate: also called “rayon” when it came into commercial use after WWI. Given the name ‘acetate’ in the 1950s. women’s clothing. Art deco: derives from the L’Exposition Internationale des Art Décoratifs et Industriels Moderns, the name of an exposition in Paris in 1925. The term has been applied to art typical of that produced in 1920s & 30s. Geometric forms that could be derived from artistic expressions of the past or present characterized Art Deco styles. Egyptian and Mayan motifs can be seen in Art Deco, as well as designs related to modern art movements such as Cubism, Fauvism, and Expressionism. Geometric lines. (underwent a revival in the 1970s) Artificial silk: a new fiber manufactured by cellulose (done so by Count Hilaire de Chardonnet in the 1880s). It was very lustrous and did not wash well, so it was not widely accepted. Athletic shirts: (1930s) knitted cotton that were adapted from the top of tank swimsuits Barrymore collar: (named after actor John Barrymore) had long points (20s) Basque shirt: striped, wide crew-necked shirts Battle jacket: (aka Eisenhower) short, waist-length, bloused jackets the lower edge of which was attached to a belt of the same fabric Batwing sleeve: full sleeve cut in raglan style (magyar) Bias cut: a technique for cutting clothing to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth, which has greater stretch and drapes in such a way that the body lines and curves are accentuated. (Vionnet) Bob: to have one’s hair cut short. Bobby-soxers: 1940s – teenage girls wore ankle socks so they became know by this name Boxer shorts: boys’ undergarment Briefs: panties that grew shorter in order to fit under active sportswear Bush jacket: short-sleeved tan cotton jackets with 4 large flapped pockets made to imitate styles worn by hunters and explorers in Africa; popular for casual wear in the 1930s California collar: (Clark Gable) shorter, wider points than the Barrymore collar of the 20s Cami-knickers: alternate name for the combination (aka step-in) Chamber Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne: a trade association that represents the French haute couture. Chukka boots: higher shoes that ended at the ankle, closing with laces Clasp locker: Cloche: a small, close-fitting hat; became the predominant hat form (women)
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Clutch coat: had to be held shut because they had no fastening. Cowboy shirt: bright colors and fabrics with button-down pockets on the chest and pointed collars Cummerbund: a wide, pleated fabric waistband, for the waistcoat Dirndl skirt: full, gathered skirts that became popular around 1945 Dishrag shirt: men’s shirts made of net fabric; first seen on the Riviera Eisenhower jacket: based on military jackets that were slightly bloused above the waist and gathered to a
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