Chapter_23

Chapter_23 - Chapter23 TextilePrinting&Design 21:45...

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Chapter 23 21:45 Printing: Design transferred to a flat surface  Surface coated with a dye  Design stamped on fabric  o Can be repeated Design can be applied to  o Warp yarns o Fabrics o Apparel pieces ***Printing is a cheaper way of creating designs on fabric than weaving or knitting  with different colored yarns*** Colorants used in printing, Basic Principles: Solid colors o Dyes dominate the market  o Pigments for pale shades, polyester/cotton blend Requires binders Prints o Pigments – simpler processing (one step print on blends) Blends dominate market, so prints dominate the market
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o 50%   + of the print market STEPS of PRINTING: Color applied o As thick as paste (like mayonnaise) o Limits wicking   short outline Original image reduced to fixed number of colors o Exception: ink-jet Printing with dyes/Wet Printing: 1. Application of dye + thickener + auxiliaries 2. Drying of fabric 3. Steaming to fix
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4. Wash to remove unfixed dye, thickener, auxiliaries Substrates o Cotton and rayon are the most common fibers used in wet printing Dyes o Reactive dyes most used o Vat dyes when best fastness required, especially light o Disperse dyes for polyester o Reactive dyes for cotton blends Printing with pigments: Application of pigment + binder + thickener Print dried, cured with dry heat to fix binder  Quicker and cleaner than wet processing Bright colors can be of good light-fastness Light colored pigments can be printed on dark backgrounds Pigments hide dark backgrounds, dyes are transparent White pigments, but we don’t have white dyes Swatch #55 – pigment is pink, the fabric was fabric dyed red Means of achieving a design: A design can be produced on a fabric by
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o Printing directing onto greige goods o Printing onto pre-dyed fabric o Dying fabric treated with a resist (to resist in certain places) or mordant (to  absorb in certain places) then printing Direct (blotch) Printing: Direct printing o Applying dye/pigment onto textile substrate  o Each color in design applied separately  Grins – imperfect alignment   white spaces Trapping – deliberate overlap of colors
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Chapter_23 - Chapter23 TextilePrinting&Design 21:45...

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