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14_waves_A

# 14_waves_A - WavesI GS222 Lecture14 Overviewthislecture...

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Waves I GS222 Lecture 14

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Overview - this lecture Wave basics (wavelength, frequency, speed, etc) Wave energy and motion Factors affecting wave height
Why study waves? maritime safety, rogue waves impact on coastal zone – erosion and flooding mixing of the ocean surfing just because

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Wave basics Progressive waves –  waves that move freely on the surface  wavelength ( L ) trough crest height (H) amplitude (H/2) Wave period (T)  = time for wave to move through one wavelength              (e.g. seconds per wave) T = 1/f f = 1/T Wave frequency (f)  = number of wave crests that pass in a given                                     time (e.g. waves per second)
Wave basics, continued Wave speed (c)  = wavelength (L) / period (T)   (e.g. m/s) wavelength ( L ) height (H) Wave steepness  = height (H) / wavelength (L)  (dimensionless) Progressive waves transfer energy from one point to another, not  mass (or water).

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Wave energy Waves contain 2 types of energy: 1) kinetic (water moving with the wave) 2) potential (water displaced vertically against gravity) For most waves, the total energy per area, E, is approximately: E = 0.125 g  ρ H 2 density (1025 kg m -3 ) accel. due to gravity (9.8 m s -2 ) height (m) Calculate E for H = 1 m and H = 10 m.
Wave energy E = 0.125 g

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14_waves_A - WavesI GS222 Lecture14 Overviewthislecture...

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