15_waves_B - WavesII GS222 Lecture15 Overviewthislecture...

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Waves II GS222 Lecture 15 
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Overview - this lecture Trends in wave height Deep vs. shallow water waves Shallow water wave speed, period, height, and breaking
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Trends in Wave Height Wave heights increasing in certain locations  of the Atlantic and Pacific Implies there are stronger / more frequent  storm events Has potentially serious implications for  beach erosion and storm surge in  coastal areas Models of future impacts include sea level  rise but not changes in height!
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Pacific Northwest (Washington) Rates of Wave Height Increase Annual Mean + 1.5 cm/yr Winter Mean + 2.3 cm/yr Avg. 5 Largest +7.1 cm/yr Annual Max +9.5 cm/yr after Allan and Komar, 2000; 2006
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By definition, deep water waves occur where  water depth > ½ L. L Water below surface moves in orbital pattern with  diameter = H.
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15_waves_B - WavesII GS222 Lecture15 Overviewthislecture...

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