fabric classification

fabric classification - HUEC 4041 History of Textiles...

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HUEC 4041 History of Textiles Classification of the Structures of Textiles Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff, Ph.D. Doris & Jules Carville Professor
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CLASSIFICATION OF THE STRUCTURES OF FABRIC Based on: The Primary Structures of Fabrics
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Felted Fibers Natural plant forms Beaten bark-cloth Papyrus Agglomerated fibers Felt Paper
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Felted Fibers Fibers: Emery, 1980, p 20 Colored: Kaeppler, 1980, back cover Beaten bark cloth: fibrous structure Hawaiian bark cloth Natural plant forms Beaten bark-cloth
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Felted Fibers Agglomerated fibers Felt Fig. 3: Felt structure Fig. 4: Felt surface texture Emery, 1980
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Felted Fibers P 559 & 560, National Geographic, 1988
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Interworked Elements The majority of fabrics are created from separate elements (each with own structural make-up) that are systematically interworked to form a coherent material They are classified by System of interworking Number of elements or sets of elements
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Interworked Elements Element - a component part or unit of the structure of an interworked fabric Yarn, thread, strand, cord, thong Whatever natural or contrived unit of fibers or filaments used to form a fabric Set of elements - a group of such components all used in a like manner Functionally undifferentiated Trending in the same direction
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Interworked Elements Single element: knitting (most common) Two single elements One set of Elements Two or More Sets of Elements: weaving (warp/weft)
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Single element Linking Looping Interlooping Vertical (knitting) Vertical & lateral (crochet)
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Single element Linking Simple linking p 30 Emery, 1980
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Single element Looping Simple looping (or buttonhole looping) crossed left-over-right. p 31 Emery, 1980
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Single element Interlooping Vertical (knitting) Done using needles Fig. 39: Plain knitting, stocking stitch Fig. 42: Plain knitting, stocking stitch, opposite face of fig. 39. Fig. 38: Plain knitting, garter stitch (the two faces are identical). Fig. 40: loosely worked construction of fig. 39. Fig. 41: loosely worked construction of fig. 42 (opposite face of fig. 40). Emery, 1980
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Single element Interlooping Vertical and lateral (crochet) Done using a hook Fig. 51: Plain crochet worked back and forth. The opposite face is identical. Fig. 52: Plain crochet worked round and round. Fig. 49: Starting chain with part of the next row worked into it in plain crochet stitch (working face). Emery, 1980
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Two single elements Linking stitches Looping stitches
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Fig. 57: Simple linking on a foundational element (interlocked stitches). Fig. 59: Simple
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fabric classification - HUEC 4041 History of Textiles...

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